tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-59119393707615168492024-03-02T09:29:07.803-08:00DigitalduinoJordanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03951190922958142729noreply@blogger.comBlogger102125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5911939370761516849.post-23726708512524159822015-03-09T15:28:00.001-07:002018-05-11T18:45:40.506-07:00Creating a Minimalist CentOS Home ServerIt's about time I wrote this, so here we go. I built a little NAS/home server over Christmas time a few months ago. It's based on a FM2 3.5Ghz dual core, a mATX Gigabyte board with eight Sata3 ports, and currently has three 4TB hard drives. I've been jumping between what OS to run on it for a while: first it had Arch, then some Debian, FreeBSD and now here we are at CentOS.<br />
<br />
Why? Arch was stable but for fear of things going bad (Arch is not meant to be a server), I switched to Debian which had consistent issues with full network bandwidth causing the Ethernet driver to crash. I had high hopes for BSD then realized they dont support XFS anymore which means I couldn't mount my data drives. So here goes CentOS.<br />
<br />
While this is meant for CentOS, most commands are similar and software names are the same, so it can be used as reference for other systems.<br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<h3>
<span style="font-size: large;">Requirements</span></h3>
Obviously, the first thing you'll need is a computer, but I guess the installer files are good too. They can be found <a href="http://www.centos.org/download/">here</a> on the CentOS site. I used the minimal build found on the bottom left of the page. Unless you like living in the stone age, there is no point to using a CD or DVD, so grab a USB stick and use <a href="http://sourceforge.net/projects/win32diskimager/files/latest/download">this</a> Win32DiskImage utility to write the image to a USB stick.<br />
<br />
Also, you'll need some time. The install only took a few minutes, but the majority of the time will be spent on configuring and installing software after the install of CentOS.<br />
<br />
<br />
<h3>
<span style="font-size: large;">
Installation</span></h3>
This is pretty straight forward. There are not many options, so no changes are really needed. Fill out all the forms and be sure to create a user account along with a root user.<br />
<br />
<br />
<h3>
<span style="font-size: large;">
Configuration</span></h3>
<h4>
</h4>
<h4>
SSH</h4>
SSH may be blocked by the default firewall service firewalld. Simply run the folowing to open the ports:<br />
<div class="code">
firewall-cmd --permanent --zone=public --add-service=samba<br />
firewall-cmd --reload</div>
<br />
<h4>
</h4>
<h4>
FSTAB</h4>
<div>
The data drives need to be mounted on system start-up. This is done with fstab which is located at <i>/etc/fstab</i>. Using the following command I found the UUIDs of my data drives:</div>
<div>
<div class="code">
blkid</div>
</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
I then created mount points in /mnt and added the following lines to the fstab:</div>
<div>
<div class="code">
UUID=fbea912f-7a10-4e86-b5ed-32db97a36778 /mnt/4TB.1 xfs defaults 0 2<br />
UUID=72430954-62c2-4b71-97e7-3aad660b30c5 /mnt/4TB.2 xfs defaults 0 2<br />
UUID=c6a421e9-a9df-4ccb-8f6a-3794ecc12c4b /mnt/4TB.3 xfs defaults 0 2</div>
<br /></div>
<h4>
</h4>
<h4>
</h4>
<h4>
Samba Shares</h4>
<div>
Next we need to share these drives with the network. Only Windows machines will be accessing it, so Samba file sharing is used.<br />
<div class="code">
yum install samba samba-client</div>
</div>
<div>
<br />
Next, open the config file:<br />
<div class="code">
nano /etc/samba/smb.conf</div>
<br />
You'll probably want to change the workgroup and server strings. Then find the Share Definitions section near the bottom and add something like so:</div>
<div>
<div class="code">
[sharename]<br />
comment = description<br />
path = /path/to/directory<br />
guest ok = no<br />
browseable = yes<br />
writable = yes</div>
<br />
Next, we need to set the selinux context so the data hard drives to be used remotely and set permissions(otherwise they just don't show up remotely). Also, SELinux can be disabled in <i>/etc/selinux/config </i>if you don't want to deal with it.<br />
<div class="code">
chcon -R -t samba_share_t /mnt/4TB.*<br />
chmod -R 777 /mnt/4TB.*</div>
<br />
Next the samba user needs to be created.<br />
<div class="code">
smbpasswd -a username</div>
</div>
<br />
Then make the samba server start on bootup:<br />
<div class="code">
systemctl enable smb.service<br />
systemctl enable nmb.service<br />
systemctl restart smb.service<br />
systemctl restart nmb.service</div>
<br />
Finally, allow it through the firewall:<br />
<div class="code">
firewall-cmd --permanent --zone=public --add-service=samba<br />
firewall-cmd --reload</div>
<br />
While this samba configuration isn't very complex, it is simple and provides all the functionality I need.<br />
<br />
<br />
<h4>
Plex Media Server</h4>
<div>
Go to the Plex downloads page <a href="https://plex.tv/downloads">here</a> and get the latest link for the CentOS rpm package. Then run:<br />
<div class="code">
yum install wget<br />
wget {link to rpm from above}<br />
yum localinstall {package from previous line}</div>
<br />
Next we need to fix issues with selinux and the firewall again.<br />
<div class="code">
nano /usr/lib/firewalld/services/plexmediaserver.xml</div>
<br />
and paste in the following:<br />
<div class="code">
<?xml version="1.0" encoding="utf-8"?><br />
<service version="1.0"><br />
<short>plexmediaserver</short><br />
<description>Plex TV Media Server</description><br />
<port port="1900" protocol="udp"/><br />
<port port="5353" protocol="udp"/><br />
<port port="32400" protocol="tcp"/><br />
<port port="32410" protocol="udp"/><br />
<port port="32412" protocol="udp"/><br />
<port port="32413" protocol="udp"/><br />
<port port="32414" protocol="udp"/><br />
<port port="32469" protocol="tcp"/><br />
</service></div>
<br />
Then add the service and reload the firewall:<br />
<div class="code">
firewall-cmd --permanent --zone=public --add-service=plexmediaserver<br />
firewall-cmd --reload</div>
<br />
At this point I was tired of dealing with selinux, so I just disabled it. This makes the chcon command in the samba setup irrelevant. Do this by editing <i>/etc/selinux/config </i>and setting selinux to disabled.<br />
<div class="code">
nano /etc/selinux/config</div>
<br />
Finally, enable and start the Plex service:<br />
<div class="code">
systemctl enable plexmediaserver<br />
systemctl start plexmediaserver</div>
<br />
<br />
<h4>
FTP Server</h4>
<div>
In this case i'll be using VSFTPD, which is a nice lightweight server: perfect for my uses. Install it and then start the service:</div>
<div>
<div class="code">
yum install vsftpd</div>
</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Next edit the config and set the options below:</div>
<div>
<div class="code">
nano /etc/vsftpd/vsftpd.conf</div>
</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<div class="code">
anonymous_enable=NO
<br />
<div>
local_enable=YES</div>
<div>
<div>
ascii_upload_enable=YES</div>
<div>
ascii_download_enable=YES</div>
</div>
<div>
ftpd_banner=</div>
<div>
use_localtime=YES</div>
</div>
</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
We also need to change SELinux and the firewall again. </div>
<div>
<div class="code">
setsebool -P ftp_home_dir on
<br />
<div>
<div>
firewall-cmd --permanent --zone=public --add-service=ftp</div>
<div>
firewall-cmd --reload</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Finally, enable the service:</div>
<div>
<div>
<div class="code">
systemctl enable vsftpd
<br />
<div>
systemctl start vsftpd</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div>
<br />
<br /></div>
<h4>
</h4>
<h4>
</h4>
<h4>
FTP Client</h4>
<div>
Since this is a headless server, a regular gui ftp client wont do. rather than using the default ftp terminal client, i'll be using lftp. It's available in the yum repository:</div>
<div>
<div class="code">
yum install lftp</div>
</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
lftp downloads content to the directory it is executed from, so change to the downloads directory first. Start lftp like so</div>
<div>
<div class="code">
lftp ftp://username@Your.Server.ip</div>
</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
You can then navigate your server's file directory using the usual linux cd command. Using the following commands you can download single files and directories with n being the number of simultaneous connections. </div>
<div>
<div>
<div class="code">
pget -n 5 FileName
<br />
<div>
mirror --use-pget-n=5 DirectoryName</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
It also has a queue feature. Simply add <i>queue </i>before the previous commands and it adds the files to the queue. Enter <i>queue stop</i> before adding any files to prevent immediate downloading. <i>queue -d </i> to clear the queue. Use <i>job -v </i> to list the current download and <i>queue </i>to view the queue. To stop transfers enter <i>kill </i>or <i>kill 1</i> where 1 is the queue number.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
lftp can run in the background so downloads can be started via a ssh session without having to maintain the connection. To re-open the lftp session simply type <i>pgrep lftp</i> in your Linux shell and then start lftp and enter <i>attach {PID from pgrep}</i><br />
<i><br /></i>
<i><br /></i></div>
<h4>
</h4>
<h4>
</h4>
<h4>
X server and qbittorrent</h4>
<div>
The qbittorrent graphical torrent client is used because it was the only client that supported rss feeds which I use through showrss for auto downloading. This is sloppy because its mainly here for my future reference.....<br />
<br />
Install the X server and configure:<br />
<div class="code">
yum groupinstall "X Window System"<br />
yum groupinstall "Fonts"<br />
yum install xorg-x11-font-utils.x86_64 xorg-x11-fonts-100dpi.noarch xorg-x11-fonts-75dpi.noarch xorg-x11-fonts-Type1.noarch xorg-x11-xauth.x86_64 libX11.x86_64 dbus-x11.x86_64 xorg-x11-server-utils.x86_64 xorg-x11-xkb-utils.x86_64 xterm xorg-x11-xinit xorg-x11-font-utils xorg-x11-fonts-Type1 libX11-common xorg-x11-xauth libX11 dbus-x11 xorg-x11-server-utils xorg-x11-xkb-util<br />
X -configure</div>
copy the new config from root to /etc/X11/xorg.conf<br />
<br />
autologin<br />
edit /etc/systemd/system/getty.target.wants/getty\@tty1.service and change<br />
<div class="code">
ExecStart=-/sbin/agetty –noclear %I $TERM</div>
to<br />
<div class="code">
ExecStart=-/sbin/agetty --autologin <USER> --noclear %I $TERM</div>
<br />
autostart X<br />
edit ~/.bash_profile and add the following at the end:<br />
<div class="code">
if [[ ! $DISPLAY && $XDG_VTNR -eq 1 ]]; then<br />
exec xinit -- /usr/bin/X -config xorg.conf<br />
fi</div>
<br />
<div>
<br /></div>
get TWM from centos 6 repositort and install<br />
<div class="code">
wget http://mirror.centos.org/centos/6/os/x86_64/Packages/xorg-x11-twm-1.0.3-5.1.el6.x86_64.rpm<br />
rpm -ivh --nodeps xorg-x11-twm-1.0.3-5.1.el6.x86_64.rpm</div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
install the EPEL repository for qbittorrent<br />
<div class="code">
wget http://dl.fedoraproject.org/pub/epel/epel-release-latest-7.noarch.rpm<br />
rpm -ivh epel-release-latest-7.noarch.rpm<br />
yum install qbittorrent</div>
<br />
<br />
make a graphical service for qbittorrent in /etc/systemd/system/qbittorrent.service<br />
<div class="code">
[Unit]<br />
Description=Start qbittorrent<br />
PartOf=multi-user.target<br />
<br />
[Service]<br />
User=foo<br />
Environment="DISPLAY=:0"<br />
ExecStart=/usr/bin/qbittorrent<br />
ExecStop=/usr/bin/pkill -f 'qbittorrent'<br />
<br />
[Install]<br />
WantedBy=xsession.target</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<br />
install tigervnc-server with yum<br />
<br />
<br />
make /etc/systemd/system/x0vncserver.service<br />
<div class="code">
[Unit]<br />
Description=Remote desktop service (VNC)<br />
After=network-online.target<br />
PartOf=multi-user.target<br />
<br />
[Service]<br />
Type=forking<br />
User=foo<br />
ExecStart=/usr/bin/sh -c '/usr/bin/x0vncserver -display :0 -rfbport 5900 -passwordfile /home/foo/.vnc/passwd<br />
ExecStop=/usr/bin/pkill -f 'vnc'<br />
<br />
[Install]<br />
WantedBy=xsession.target</div>
<br />
<br />
create xsession.target as /etc/systemd/system/xsession.target<br />
<div class="code">
[Unit]<br />
Description=Xsession running<br />
BindsTo=multi-user.target</div>
<br />
<br />
enable the qbittorrent and vnc services<br />
<br />
<br />
edit sudoers file and add this to the end<br />
<div class="code">
foo ALL=(ALL) NOPASSWD: /usr/bin/systemctl --no-block start xsession.target</div>
<br />
<div>
<br /></div>
<br />
edit /home/foo/.xinitrc and add the following to the file<br />
<div class="code">
sudo /usr/bin/systemctl --no-block start xsession.target<br />
/usr/bin/twm</div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
Now go in and setup qbittorrent. Set the webui to a different port (as 80 doesnt seem to work) and forward it in the firewall (see below). It is then accessible at server_ip:WEBUI_PORT<br />
<br />
<br />
If HTTPS is desired, do:<br />
<div class="code">
<br />
mkdir ~/.config/qBittorrent/ssl<br />
cd ~/.config/qBittorrent/ssl<br />
openssl req -new -x509 -nodes -out server.crt -keyout server.key</div>
<br />
Then enable https in the qbittorrent settings and select the generated files from above command. webui is then found at https://server_ip:WEBUI_PORT<br />
<br />
<br />
Set the torrent port and forward that as well. Both of these then need to be forwarded in your router. <a href="https://www.yougetsignal.com/tools/open-ports/">Port checkers</a> are useful here. use <a href="https://ipleak.net/">ipleak</a> to check your ip is properly setup ;)<br />
<br />
<br />
Go to the View menu in qbittorrent and enable the RSS Reader. Add the a feed with the new subscription button. click rss downloader, add a rule, ensure all fields are blank and select the previously added feed.<br />
<br />
<br />
Of course, firewall exceptions need to be added.<br />
<div class="code">
firewall-cmd --permanent --zone=public --add-port=5900/tcp<br />
firewall-cmd --permanent --zone=public --add-port=WEBUI_PORT/tcp<br />
firewall-cmd --permanent --zone=public --add-port=TORRENT_PORT/tcp<br />
firewall-cmd --reload</div>
</div>
<div>
<br />
<br />
<h4>
Filebot</h4>
<div>
Perhaps the most vital part to this is Filebot: a program which automatically runs after a downlaod is complete, renames it, and finally puts it in a nice organized directory where the Plex Server can addit to the library. Automatically. It's awesome. Paired with a RSS feed with the latest media in rTorrent, this is amazing. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Filebot requires Java 8 so get that <a href="https://www.java.com/en/download/manual.jsp">from oracle</a> and install it:</div>
<div>
<div class="code">
wget <the linux x64 rpm from link above><br />
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
yum localinstall <above rpm></div>
</div>
</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Next grab the Filebot portable package</div>
<div>
<div class="code">
mkdir ~/scripts/filebot
<br />
<div>
cd ~/scripts/filebot<br />
<br /></div>
<div>
wget https://archrepo.000webhostapp.com/lostpkg/FileBot_4.7.9-portable.tar.xz<br />
<div>
<br /></div>
</div>
<div>
7za -x FileBot_4.7.9-portable.zip</div>
</div>
</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Add the following to the Run external program on torrent completion box in qbittorrent download settings. Note the gmail option uses an app password, not your actual password. Also you need a <a href="https://support.plex.tv/articles/204059436-finding-an-authentication-token-x-plex-token/">plex token.</a></div>
<div>
<div>
<div class="code">
<div>
/home/foo/scripts/filebot/filebot.sh -script fn:amc --output "/media/root/location" --log-file /home/foo/scripts/filebot/amc.log --action duplicate --conflict override -non-strict --def excludeList=/home/foo/scripts/filebot/amc.excludes plex=127.0.0.1:token gmail=user:apppassword "seriesFormat=/tv/save/location/{n}/Season {s}/{n} - {sxe} - {t}" "animeFormat=/anime/save/location/{n}/{n} - {e} - {t}" "movieFormat=/movie/save/location/{n} ({y})" "musicFormat=/music/save/location/{n}/{n} - {t}" unsorted=y music=y artwork=y "ut_dir=%F" "ut_kind=multi" "ut_title=%N" "ut_label=%L"</div>
</div>
</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
</div>
<h3>
</h3>
<h3>
<span style="font-size: large;">Conclusion</span></h3>
So, there we go. Everything I need in a basic home NAS.</div>
</div>
Jordanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03951190922958142729noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5911939370761516849.post-63518843790502010662014-07-20T15:10:00.001-07:002014-07-20T15:10:14.524-07:00RC Mitsubishi Eclipse Part 1: 3D Modeled ShellThis here is one of my long term projects: a 1/8th scale remote controlled Mitsubishi Eclipse. I don't feel like going into much detail currently, but in this part I will be taking a 3D model of a 2nd generation Eclipse and creating a scaled mold that can be used in a vacuum former to create a shell for the car. A 3D model was very hard to find for free, but I did eventually find one.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2Bu9u5nUEw8/U8R-fQ0h3II/AAAAAAAADZU/dhnYmpyoMEY/s1600/step1.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2Bu9u5nUEw8/U8R-fQ0h3II/AAAAAAAADZU/dhnYmpyoMEY/s1600/step1.png" height="238" width="400" /></a></div>
First I had to import this .3ds formatted file into Solidworks. With a premium version, this can be done with the ScanTo3D feature. This must be first enabled under Tools>Add-Ins. Once done, the .3ds can be opened like any other SolidWorks file.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SJ3IBh_Fg9w/U8SAJYSjrcI/AAAAAAAADZg/kz0AYmZPfrc/s1600/step2.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SJ3IBh_Fg9w/U8SAJYSjrcI/AAAAAAAADZg/kz0AYmZPfrc/s1600/step2.png" height="238" width="400" /></a></div>
Then I could move on to modifying the model to the correct scale. However, this cannot be done to the part file as it is with the meshes. So, we convert this to a .STL which also allows us to modify and measure the model unlike the meshes. I then measured the length of the model and found the ratio of it to the needed length of the model to fit the 1/8th scale of the real car. This ratio is then inserted into the Scale feature (found under Insert>Features>Scale) which scales the model to the correct 1/8th scale.<br />
<br />
The next step is to create the carbon fiber base chassis to fit the shell. This method (basing it off of a real car) makes it so much easier to design the car as not everything needs to be created from scratch. As for creating the actual shell, i'd need to get a hold of a vacuum form machine.Jordanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03951190922958142729noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5911939370761516849.post-48400517864533617912014-06-15T14:18:00.001-07:002014-06-15T14:18:26.825-07:00Modifying a Logitech Gaming Controller <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zPKzINhpIi0/U54MYyzoU0I/AAAAAAAADYM/SRcPUOCWtJI/s1600/IMG_20140615_145934.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zPKzINhpIi0/U54MYyzoU0I/AAAAAAAADYM/SRcPUOCWtJI/s1600/IMG_20140615_145934.jpg" height="301" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
I have a few projects that need to be easily interfaced with a computer to be used in games. I thought of using a Teensy cause it has USB support, but I had a sorta old Logitech controller that I wasn't using anymore. My idea was to bring out all the buttons and joysticks (potentiometers) to a header that could be accessed on the outside. Then this slimmed down controller could be put into a modular case that can be swapped between multiple gaming accessories such as a racing wheel or a guitar for <a href="http://www.dwsk.co.uk/">Phase Shift</a> (guitar hero for the PC). An since its a Logitech controller, it pretty much works in every game.<br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-m1kc59fsZFA/U3lVFxdjsII/AAAAAAAADKU/jOOYu8_OfqM/s1600/f310.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-m1kc59fsZFA/U3lVFxdjsII/AAAAAAAADKU/jOOYu8_OfqM/s1600/f310.jpg" height="352" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
This is what I started with. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-os2ZMuo24OA/U3lWGOmuHDI/AAAAAAAADKk/80btMwnyPHk/s1600/IMG_20140518_111050.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-os2ZMuo24OA/U3lWGOmuHDI/AAAAAAAADKk/80btMwnyPHk/s1600/IMG_20140518_111050.jpg" height="301" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
I removed the shell, buttons and trigger assemblies etc from the board.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zWBVEzmlc28/U3lWFs-5s_I/AAAAAAAADKc/QtmKsgjZyto/s1600/IMG_20140518_111038.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zWBVEzmlc28/U3lWFs-5s_I/AAAAAAAADKc/QtmKsgjZyto/s1600/IMG_20140518_111038.jpg" height="301" width="400" /></a></div>
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I was too excited to grab other pics so this is the first I have. I began tracing out paths on the PCB using my multimeter and by hand. Somethings were easy with pads that could be easily soldered on to but others such as the dpad and the X,Y,B,A buttons I had to solder directly onto the buttons. </div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-en0EY5dDw-c/U3lgj8A8HjI/AAAAAAAADLU/YBmCPhB0zFM/s1600/button+pads.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-en0EY5dDw-c/U3lgj8A8HjI/AAAAAAAADLU/YBmCPhB0zFM/s1600/button+pads.jpg" height="131" width="400" /></a></div>
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These are the types of pads that the game controller has. To solder onto them, you have to scrape off the black coating to get the bare copper. </div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UU7QDFN7JXg/U3lWFndcHSI/AAAAAAAADKg/2sUJVW5-iVQ/s1600/IMG_20140518_111132.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UU7QDFN7JXg/U3lWFndcHSI/AAAAAAAADKg/2sUJVW5-iVQ/s1600/IMG_20140518_111132.jpg" height="297" width="400" /></a>]</div>
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I checked that I had soldered properly by crossing the wires and checking the game controller properties. </div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3x-LBPU4nU4/U3lWGlli_NI/AAAAAAAADKw/zfP2XySa10Q/s1600/IMG_20140518_114306.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3x-LBPU4nU4/U3lWGlli_NI/AAAAAAAADKw/zfP2XySa10Q/s1600/IMG_20140518_114306.jpg" height="301" width="400" /></a></div>
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Added some hot glue to make sure the connection stay secure as soldering on these pads is pretty janky. You'll see here that each pad had two wires. I assumed all the pads had a common ground or 5v and teh buttons would connect that to a pin on the MCU to trigger the button. I couldn't verify this and got tired of trying, so I just extended out all pad wires.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zVceQimxDFs/U3lWGyHRwZI/AAAAAAAADK4/TjpBSMyIJQ0/s1600/IMG_20140518_133833.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zVceQimxDFs/U3lWGyHRwZI/AAAAAAAADK4/TjpBSMyIJQ0/s1600/IMG_20140518_133833.jpg" height="301" width="400" /></a></div>
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I removed the other buttons, joysticks and pots so I could make the last connections. With all that excess hardware gone, This thing is pretty slim so it should be easily made into a modular "cartridge"</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XlLOf5otIhI/U3lWHE5Z-3I/AAAAAAAADK8/cwlGu1OemVE/s1600/IMG_20140518_133857.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XlLOf5otIhI/U3lWHE5Z-3I/AAAAAAAADK8/cwlGu1OemVE/s1600/IMG_20140518_133857.jpg" height="301" width="400" /></a></div>
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Just basic tactile switches and 10k pots.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VeTS0xT71L8/U3lhhnvLuhI/AAAAAAAADLc/H0zfUskPbMU/s1600/ide.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VeTS0xT71L8/U3lhhnvLuhI/AAAAAAAADLc/H0zfUskPbMU/s1600/ide.jpg" height="400" width="400" /></a></div>
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As for making the connections easily detachable, I found that a floppy cable has the perfect amount of pins for the controller. The female (black) connector will be on the controller board and the male (white) connectors will be in whatever devices its swaps in and out of.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--acV4r9VtUc/U3lk1IKm-CI/AAAAAAAADLo/dsn-daYDvZU/s1600/pinout.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--acV4r9VtUc/U3lk1IKm-CI/AAAAAAAADLo/dsn-daYDvZU/s1600/pinout.png" height="400" width="230" /></a></div>
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This is the pinout i'm thinking of</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Fqy1TxSAm8Y/U3vm7XBc49I/AAAAAAAADMs/rrCg_Jf2MQA/s1600/case+proto+pic.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Fqy1TxSAm8Y/U3vm7XBc49I/AAAAAAAADMs/rrCg_Jf2MQA/s1600/case+proto+pic.png" height="208" width="640" /></a></div>
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This is a quick prototype of what the case could look like. It's 140x67x15mm. The left shows the hole for the USB cable and the right shows where the floppy connector will fit in.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yCtGRCMo050/U4JhfB06tGI/AAAAAAAADN4/BlW1Vkyna-M/s1600/IMG_20140524_172513.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yCtGRCMo050/U4JhfB06tGI/AAAAAAAADN4/BlW1Vkyna-M/s1600/IMG_20140524_172513.png" height="267" width="400" /></a></div>
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All soldered up. other two buttons are for mode and xinput/dinput output buttons.</div>
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Case 3D printed and board placed inside!</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zPKzINhpIi0/U54MYyzoU0I/AAAAAAAADYM/SRcPUOCWtJI/s1600/IMG_20140615_145934.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zPKzINhpIi0/U54MYyzoU0I/AAAAAAAADYM/SRcPUOCWtJI/s1600/IMG_20140615_145934.jpg" height="241" width="320" /></a></div>
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Found some screws to fit</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_db1vsRJlMk/U54MZDrhUJI/AAAAAAAADYU/zg1jOH3LW_U/s1600/IMG_20140615_150007.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_db1vsRJlMk/U54MZDrhUJI/AAAAAAAADYU/zg1jOH3LW_U/s1600/IMG_20140615_150007.jpg" height="241" width="320" /></a></div>
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Mode and input mode buttons</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XFrN_rjgPdI/U54MaGwP9iI/AAAAAAAADYg/3L-wmBR3Ijs/s1600/IMG_20140615_150031.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XFrN_rjgPdI/U54MaGwP9iI/AAAAAAAADYg/3L-wmBR3Ijs/s1600/IMG_20140615_150031.jpg" height="241" width="320" /></a></div>
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I tested it out like I did before in Windows and it works perfectly! Now it can be swapped into different projects.</div>
<br />Jordanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03951190922958142729noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5911939370761516849.post-86352222888579980562014-06-05T17:51:00.000-07:002014-06-05T19:57:51.281-07:00DIY Varaible Temp Soldering Iton<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_mPFt7LxX3s/U5ENYTtmmJI/AAAAAAAADXM/Nyhoi6lf_xI/s1600/IMG_20140605_183226.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_mPFt7LxX3s/U5ENYTtmmJI/AAAAAAAADXM/Nyhoi6lf_xI/s1600/IMG_20140605_183226.jpg" height="301" width="400" /></a></div>
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I still haven't spent the money to get a nice variable soldering iron for home use so I continue to make do with what I have or on the cheap. I'm getting really tired of no temp control so I thought of using a AC light dimmer to control it. A few short Googles later and sure enough someone else has already thought of this idea and tested it. </div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xYpfZ-m4Jys/U5ENUy5Bx5I/AAAAAAAADWQ/lJ6mPSnlymU/s1600/IMG_20140605_171327.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xYpfZ-m4Jys/U5ENUy5Bx5I/AAAAAAAADWQ/lJ6mPSnlymU/s1600/IMG_20140605_171327.jpg" height="301" width="400" /></a></div>
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I went to my local home improvement store and got a dimmer, outlet and a box to mount it in.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lI2o4ziLZAg/U5ENVN-0SgI/AAAAAAAADWU/TjdyXw_qBtA/s1600/IMG_20140605_174304.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lI2o4ziLZAg/U5ENVN-0SgI/AAAAAAAADWU/TjdyXw_qBtA/s1600/IMG_20140605_174304.jpg" height="301" width="400" /></a></div>
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I snipped the end off of an old PC power cable to use here.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RjfD3qtFZsk/U5ENVE7p-3I/AAAAAAAADWY/I-z4yKDs7n0/s1600/IMG_20140605_174407.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RjfD3qtFZsk/U5ENVE7p-3I/AAAAAAAADWY/I-z4yKDs7n0/s1600/IMG_20140605_174407.jpg" height="301" width="400" /></a></div>
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Installed the dimmer and outlet.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yUVD39_nMmE/U5ENV2vNRzI/AAAAAAAADWk/qFGyqd1-on4/s1600/IMG_20140605_174809.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yUVD39_nMmE/U5ENV2vNRzI/AAAAAAAADWk/qFGyqd1-on4/s1600/IMG_20140605_174809.jpg" height="301" width="400" /></a></div>
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Connected the ground from the cord and the ground from the dimmer to the terminal on the outlet.</div>
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Connected blue (neutral) to the outlet from the cord.</div>
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One of the black wires from the dimmer goes to the Hot on the outlet and the other goes to brown (hot) on the power cord. It's basically like an inline switch or pot. Don't let the AC trick you, this design is pretty much like DC!</div>
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Connected with a wire nut.</div>
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All assembled and ready to go! Now I just need a better knob and find what temperatures are where on the dial.</div>
Jordanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03951190922958142729noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5911939370761516849.post-77310836959499746222014-06-04T16:16:00.002-07:002014-06-04T16:16:17.112-07:00Old Glider to RC Plane<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-V1WHwwYaxR0/U4QTcEKDE4I/AAAAAAAADPc/76pChfAQd04/s1600/IMG_20140525_170031.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-V1WHwwYaxR0/U4QTcEKDE4I/AAAAAAAADPc/76pChfAQd04/s1600/IMG_20140525_170031.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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After my utter failure in building a BluBaby RC plane, I decided to hit it again, but with a different approach. I know a decent amount about flight mechanics, but not so much on building one from scratch. So, I used a glider as the base for my plane and added electronics to make remote controlled, and then later a brushless motor. This plane will be Elevator and aileron only, simply because I don't want to deal with a rudder, and its not really necessary in the beginning (yank and bank all the way!)<br />
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Surfaces</h3>
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I started by cutting the surfaces into the wing. I estimated on how big they needed based off of other designs i've seen (mainly on RCGroups). Then I cut holes in the wings for the servos and add the push rods and related hardware. </div>
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These are the quick connectors that fit into the servo horn to allow for easy adjustment of the surfaces. </div>
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Shot of the elevator system. I'm not sure how well it will work without any bracing on the push rod, but it seems to hold well in testing.</div>
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Fuselage</h3>
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This hole is where all the wires meet and then connect to the receiver. In order to use fewer channels on the receiver, I have used a Y cable to connect the two servos to one channel.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-r0XSrIcnc5o/U4-nocRnPOI/AAAAAAAADR0/MbcH5YkSufk/s1600/wheel+proto.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-r0XSrIcnc5o/U4-nocRnPOI/AAAAAAAADR0/MbcH5YkSufk/s1600/wheel+proto.png" height="302" width="400" /></a></div>
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Here's a prototype wheel i'm thinking of 3d printing for a landing gear.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mXG7uzsCepU/U4aYB3NmOdI/AAAAAAAADRY/La8l-6dqQwk/s1600/IMG_20140528_200855.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mXG7uzsCepU/U4aYB3NmOdI/AAAAAAAADRY/La8l-6dqQwk/s1600/IMG_20140528_200855.jpg" height="301" width="400" /></a></div>
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These two red lines show where a 2200mah battery needs to go to properly balance the plane.</div>
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Motor Mount</h3>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-U1MGNhDeUcU/U4QTdQtbj6I/AAAAAAAADP4/7uURs6pvZjE/s1600/IMG_20140526_143025.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-U1MGNhDeUcU/U4QTdQtbj6I/AAAAAAAADP4/7uURs6pvZjE/s1600/IMG_20140526_143025.jpg" height="301" width="400" /></a></div>
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This here was probably one of the hardest parts to design. It has to be sturdy, yet serviceable to change a motor or change the angle of the motor on the mount. </div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vsOuU2Pzryg/U4QTdDCzfUI/AAAAAAAADPs/lMEwWsebQ3I/s1600/IMG_20140526_142845.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vsOuU2Pzryg/U4QTdDCzfUI/AAAAAAAADPs/lMEwWsebQ3I/s1600/IMG_20140526_142845.jpg" height="301" width="400" /></a></div>
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I started with this. The two long bolts act as anchors in the nose of the plane to hold a base for the rest of the motor mount to connect to. </div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-F2irPEpW0B4/U4QTdzP0bII/AAAAAAAADQA/hSHFfh05Quw/s1600/IMG_20140526_144309.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-F2irPEpW0B4/U4QTdzP0bII/AAAAAAAADQA/hSHFfh05Quw/s1600/IMG_20140526_144309.jpg" height="301" width="400" /></a></div>
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Like so. I used a drill bit to make the holes in the nose.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Pg5Z0yKwn-Y/U4QTdozyQSI/AAAAAAAADQI/Gk8APWdZ__8/s1600/IMG_20140526_144249.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Pg5Z0yKwn-Y/U4QTdozyQSI/AAAAAAAADQI/Gk8APWdZ__8/s1600/IMG_20140526_144249.jpg" height="301" width="400" /></a></div>
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Basically what it looks like after being hot glued in.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-scJgdm3VfIc/U4QTgJf32RI/AAAAAAAADQ4/SziF5yFSzCA/s1600/IMG_20140526_214935.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-scJgdm3VfIc/U4QTgJf32RI/AAAAAAAADQ4/SziF5yFSzCA/s1600/IMG_20140526_214935.jpg" height="301" width="400" /></a></div>
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Here the second part of the mount has been connected via the four screws and nylon spacers. I'm really happy with how this part turned out: it is so much better than the one on my blubaby.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sQaULaoSp7M/U4aYCHGLSEI/AAAAAAAADRc/PJfep6RGQQg/s1600/IMG_20140527_182146.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sQaULaoSp7M/U4aYCHGLSEI/AAAAAAAADRc/PJfep6RGQQg/s1600/IMG_20140527_182146.jpg" height="301" width="400" /></a></div>
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Here you can see the four 2mm bolts used to hold the motor to the board. You'll also see that there are washers under some of them. This is to angle the motor to counter act the torque of the motor. Point the motor down and to the right (from cockpit view) to counter act a standard rotating propeller, and down and to the left for a counter rotating propeller.</div>
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Wings </h3>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BpoOpB0aQgE/U4QTeWYHZKI/AAAAAAAADQM/VQ1fIzqxWG4/s1600/IMG_20140526_161638.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BpoOpB0aQgE/U4QTeWYHZKI/AAAAAAAADQM/VQ1fIzqxWG4/s1600/IMG_20140526_161638.jpg" height="301" width="400" /></a></div>
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As this was originally a glider, it didn't have to support the weight of electronics. As I added these things, I realized there was no way the wings would support all this weight: they needed a spar to rigidize them</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6erH9dUPdbk/U4QTfbkE49I/AAAAAAAADQg/MTpAR56EBgg/s1600/IMG_20140526_173521.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6erH9dUPdbk/U4QTfbkE49I/AAAAAAAADQg/MTpAR56EBgg/s1600/IMG_20140526_173521.jpg" height="301" width="400" /></a></div>
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Well F*CK. Always wear gloves when using glue...</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GoYzMgOTLFQ/U4QTfoc6AeI/AAAAAAAADQs/Q74nddlEaIs/s1600/IMG_20140526_173833.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GoYzMgOTLFQ/U4QTfoc6AeI/AAAAAAAADQs/Q74nddlEaIs/s1600/IMG_20140526_173833.jpg" height="301" width="400" /></a></div>
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I cut channels in the foam and added in a spar. One side has a short metal tube that slides into the other to form a pretty solid one piece wing. </div>
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<h3>
Final Build</h3>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Kbl3qmAJROk/U4-oLR5hWxI/AAAAAAAADR8/lJo1l1HF_EA/s1600/IMG_20140531_141137.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Kbl3qmAJROk/U4-oLR5hWxI/AAAAAAAADR8/lJo1l1HF_EA/s1600/IMG_20140531_141137.jpg" height="301" width="400" /></a></div>
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Here it is all ready for a test flight. It's a bit janky, but should be good enough fro a test flight.</div>
Jordanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03951190922958142729noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5911939370761516849.post-73393844507279478752014-05-18T17:38:00.000-07:002014-05-25T15:09:40.360-07:00How To Mod a NERF Raider CS-35<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I won a Nerf Raider at a school event and so naturally I had to mod it.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YTeSjjFGS2Y/UqQpD_KmSgI/AAAAAAAAC8I/fh1JPJmrxxc/s1600/IMG_20131019_015531.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YTeSjjFGS2Y/UqQpD_KmSgI/AAAAAAAAC8I/fh1JPJmrxxc/s320/IMG_20131019_015531.jpg" height="241" width="320" /></a></div>
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A nice overview of the gun (and my mess).</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-q9-7lI0mTjs/UqQpD4MjYuI/AAAAAAAAC8E/sXQDy9IFgLo/s1600/IMG_20131019_015548.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-q9-7lI0mTjs/UqQpD4MjYuI/AAAAAAAAC8E/sXQDy9IFgLo/s320/IMG_20131019_015548.jpg" height="241" width="320" /></a></div>
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Remove hilt screws.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-k4KYJqPhdzE/UqQpG3MkfaI/AAAAAAAAC84/w38eiDr918k/s1600/IMG_20131019_0200022.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-k4KYJqPhdzE/UqQpG3MkfaI/AAAAAAAAC84/w38eiDr918k/s1600/IMG_20131019_0200022.jpg" height="320" width="293" /></a></div>
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Remove screws from the ''cocker''</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iC0_VlAxVIw/UqQpEiTT_4I/AAAAAAAAC8M/a1Vf5b8GKNY/s1600/IMG_20131019_015605.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iC0_VlAxVIw/UqQpEiTT_4I/AAAAAAAAC8M/a1Vf5b8GKNY/s320/IMG_20131019_015605.jpg" height="241" width="320" /></a></div>
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Get all the other screws on this face of the gun. Should be quite a few.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-u2AwdOuxELM/UqQpEyzMkXI/AAAAAAAAC8o/k6HxJXYaD1E/s1600/IMG_20131019_015715.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-u2AwdOuxELM/UqQpEyzMkXI/AAAAAAAAC8o/k6HxJXYaD1E/s320/IMG_20131019_015715.jpg" height="241" width="320" /></a></div>
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Remove screws from the grip</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DMCfeaCdHqM/UqQpE9LfWdI/AAAAAAAAC8c/Z0O1_vpkuhM/s1600/IMG_20131019_015725.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DMCfeaCdHqM/UqQpE9LfWdI/AAAAAAAAC8c/Z0O1_vpkuhM/s320/IMG_20131019_015725.jpg" height="241" width="320" /></a></div>
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Remove two screws from the stock.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Xy4Ih1qUoJA/UqQpF_AzPmI/AAAAAAAAC8k/xEeqFX7JQAc/s1600/IMG_20131019_015800.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Xy4Ih1qUoJA/UqQpF_AzPmI/AAAAAAAAC8k/xEeqFX7JQAc/s320/IMG_20131019_015800.jpg" height="241" width="320" /></a></div>
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Pull off the stock and then gently split the two halves. If it doesn't come off easily, you probably missed a screw.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-a5f5FscKTJM/UqQpGsimkJI/AAAAAAAAC8w/KVLEQjo20_Y/s1600/IMG_20131019_020002.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-a5f5FscKTJM/UqQpGsimkJI/AAAAAAAAC8w/KVLEQjo20_Y/s320/IMG_20131019_020002.jpg" height="241" width="320" /></a></div>
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All of the parts removed from the base.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lzzQRYBPx6k/UqQpHLflFkI/AAAAAAAAC80/mp3wZdiJMMA/s1600/IMG_20131019_020054.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lzzQRYBPx6k/UqQpHLflFkI/AAAAAAAAC80/mp3wZdiJMMA/s320/IMG_20131019_020054.jpg" height="241" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UQsFupKcqNM/UqQpJ3YEkYI/AAAAAAAAC-E/7P-rldX5jNg/s1600/IMG_20131019_020119.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UQsFupKcqNM/UqQpJ3YEkYI/AAAAAAAAC-E/7P-rldX5jNg/s320/IMG_20131019_020119.jpg" height="241" width="320" /></a></div>
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Remove the plastic bar the connects the trigger and piston assembly. </div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IHyaataUpwQ/UqQpHrL9n-I/AAAAAAAAC9Q/u7AitmIuWNc/s1600/IMG_20131019_020300.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IHyaataUpwQ/UqQpHrL9n-I/AAAAAAAAC9Q/u7AitmIuWNc/s320/IMG_20131019_020300.jpg" height="241" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-78PYrzCwZQg/UqQpI_lWRUI/AAAAAAAAC9c/0bVCxlUEBLQ/s1600/IMG_20131019_020342.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-78PYrzCwZQg/UqQpI_lWRUI/AAAAAAAAC9c/0bVCxlUEBLQ/s320/IMG_20131019_020342.jpg" height="241" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YnUFBvXj1DA/UqQpJNCL8zI/AAAAAAAAC9g/uUm2VvhmZLQ/s1600/IMG_20131019_020445.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YnUFBvXj1DA/UqQpJNCL8zI/AAAAAAAAC9g/uUm2VvhmZLQ/s320/IMG_20131019_020445.jpg" height="241" width="320" /></a></div>
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pull out trigger.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--PMdtOtzDYk/UqQpJnbSQRI/AAAAAAAAC9o/i6Rz_fvhtTg/s1600/IMG_20131019_020611.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--PMdtOtzDYk/UqQpJnbSQRI/AAAAAAAAC9o/i6Rz_fvhtTg/s320/IMG_20131019_020611.jpg" height="241" width="320" /></a></div>
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Release the spring and remove the square piece.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-eqjToLFCLGI/UqQpJzCI0ZI/AAAAAAAAC9w/KbIkrhNQuww/s1600/IMG_20131019_020718.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-eqjToLFCLGI/UqQpJzCI0ZI/AAAAAAAAC9w/KbIkrhNQuww/s320/IMG_20131019_020718.jpg" height="241" width="320" /></a></div>
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Remove the tube from the piston.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-D5yU_wIjahw/UqQpKqXfrxI/AAAAAAAAC94/OsGxPKSm4WI/s1600/IMG_20131019_020747.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-D5yU_wIjahw/UqQpKqXfrxI/AAAAAAAAC94/OsGxPKSm4WI/s320/IMG_20131019_020747.jpg" height="241" width="320" /></a></div>
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Remove the piston and you should see something like this.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HFnrDKbFyFk/UqQpLSz4D8I/AAAAAAAAC-I/qSJ-hg3rDb0/s1600/IMG_20131019_021130.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HFnrDKbFyFk/UqQpLSz4D8I/AAAAAAAAC-I/qSJ-hg3rDb0/s320/IMG_20131019_021130.jpg" height="320" width="241" /></a></div>
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Remove these rails</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-L8iZ0XhDOZI/UqQpLl3IaVI/AAAAAAAAC-M/NUXaYbHzoh0/s1600/IMG_20131019_021244.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-L8iZ0XhDOZI/UqQpLl3IaVI/AAAAAAAAC-M/NUXaYbHzoh0/s320/IMG_20131019_021244.jpg" height="241" width="320" /></a></div>
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Now you can remove this piece so the door can open at any time.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DjqmZ3BmN-o/UqQpOzjGJbI/AAAAAAAAC_A/LrFsFbTWRd4/s1600/IMG_20131019_021456.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DjqmZ3BmN-o/UqQpOzjGJbI/AAAAAAAAC_A/LrFsFbTWRd4/s320/IMG_20131019_021456.jpg" height="241" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qPn_ycyoFMk/UqQpMcfQ9LI/AAAAAAAAC-c/eQkp7Hr_EA8/s1600/IMG_20131019_021853.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qPn_ycyoFMk/UqQpMcfQ9LI/AAAAAAAAC-c/eQkp7Hr_EA8/s320/IMG_20131019_021853.jpg" height="241" width="320" /></a></div>
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Now we have to remove the A/R. I used a screwdriver, pliers and a bit of brute force.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gpmJNWfPbL4/UqQpNdoD03I/AAAAAAAAC-s/BMK-My9v7o4/s1600/IMG_20131019_025837.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gpmJNWfPbL4/UqQpNdoD03I/AAAAAAAAC-s/BMK-My9v7o4/s320/IMG_20131019_025837.jpg" height="241" width="320" /></a></div>
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I also removed the safety clip in the magazine release. </div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UuYiVfPkZlI/UqQpP-sgNHI/AAAAAAAAC_g/WHxtJSbRP4Y/s1600/IMG_20131019_131011.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UuYiVfPkZlI/UqQpP-sgNHI/AAAAAAAAC_g/WHxtJSbRP4Y/s320/IMG_20131019_131011.jpg" height="241" width="320" /></a></div>
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Its the orange piece on the far right here.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Rg7Xkovfg54/UqQpRGHZLjI/AAAAAAAAC_s/erkqaItNSSw/s1600/IMG_20131019_132515.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Rg7Xkovfg54/UqQpRGHZLjI/AAAAAAAAC_s/erkqaItNSSw/s320/IMG_20131019_132515.jpg" height="241" width="320" /></a><br />
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Put it back together.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pyKTNnsNA-A/UqQpMnTgt3I/AAAAAAAAC-0/fdpAekdWGS4/s1600/IMG_20131019_024238.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pyKTNnsNA-A/UqQpMnTgt3I/AAAAAAAAC-0/fdpAekdWGS4/s320/IMG_20131019_024238.jpg" height="241" width="320" /></a></div>
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Next we're gonna add a little more oomph to the rifle by decreasing the amount of room the spring has to compress.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wbiHEzWA-PU/UqQpOfdscQI/AAAAAAAAC-4/db0EQXPYYfE/s1600/IMG_20131019_130314.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wbiHEzWA-PU/UqQpOfdscQI/AAAAAAAAC-4/db0EQXPYYfE/s320/IMG_20131019_130314.jpg" height="241" width="320" /></a></div>
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One of my old 6 shot barrels fits over the CS-35's perfectly so I trimmed a bit off.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_TA-cpuoEnw/UqQpPFInBLI/AAAAAAAAC_E/e5umea266m8/s1600/IMG_20131019_130541.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_TA-cpuoEnw/UqQpPFInBLI/AAAAAAAAC_E/e5umea266m8/s320/IMG_20131019_130541.jpg" height="241" width="320" /></a></div>
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Blue tape to hold it down there.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ob-ie-GvFas/UqQpPVYXEMI/AAAAAAAAC_I/OEmCGIdRigU/s1600/IMG_20131019_130745.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ob-ie-GvFas/UqQpPVYXEMI/AAAAAAAAC_I/OEmCGIdRigU/s320/IMG_20131019_130745.jpg" height="241" width="320" /></a></div>
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Trimmed to not interfere with the other parts</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vrkhlYyhVH8/UqQpPqUN5BI/AAAAAAAAC_k/E_tu-_Bfy4s/s1600/IMG_20131019_130856.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vrkhlYyhVH8/UqQpPqUN5BI/AAAAAAAAC_k/E_tu-_Bfy4s/s320/IMG_20131019_130856.jpg" height="320" width="241" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hELlwehDzHo/UqQpT18RjPI/AAAAAAAADAc/VZdVLAiEgTw/s1600/IMG_20131019_133316.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hELlwehDzHo/UqQpT18RjPI/AAAAAAAADAc/VZdVLAiEgTw/s320/IMG_20131019_133316.jpg" height="320" width="241" /></a></div>
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Added some paper towels to the bottom so the piston doesn't hit so hard on the return as some people have broken their guns like this.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yXrQlYLwDVY/UqQpRjCl9wI/AAAAAAAAC_4/Jv_yUQ6DSys/s1600/IMG_20131019_133342.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yXrQlYLwDVY/UqQpRjCl9wI/AAAAAAAAC_4/Jv_yUQ6DSys/s320/IMG_20131019_133342.jpg" height="241" width="320" /></a></div>
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Time to put it back together.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-k458_LFdBfs/UqQpSJRyRCI/AAAAAAAAC_8/1hgZEBe5Ubo/s1600/IMG_20131019_133439.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-k458_LFdBfs/UqQpSJRyRCI/AAAAAAAAC_8/1hgZEBe5Ubo/s320/IMG_20131019_133439.jpg" height="241" width="320" /></a></div>
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I added a bit of lube to keep the seal from drying out.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PltJOB8Vc2Y/UqQpSrdzFQI/AAAAAAAADAI/Z9O8SfJLh7c/s1600/IMG_20131019_133607.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PltJOB8Vc2Y/UqQpSrdzFQI/AAAAAAAADAI/Z9O8SfJLh7c/s320/IMG_20131019_133607.jpg" height="241" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-16wrGyYruEs/UqQpXRgF98I/AAAAAAAADBM/ISmyPof2HNQ/s1600/IMG_20131019_140355.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-16wrGyYruEs/UqQpXRgF98I/AAAAAAAADBM/ISmyPof2HNQ/s320/IMG_20131019_140355.jpg" height="320" width="241" /></a></div>
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I put some tape around a small air hole for a bit of extra power.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YpTGhgTJohk/UqQpWH_6f6I/AAAAAAAADAw/8z1hFXqL4cQ/s1600/IMG_20131019_133619.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YpTGhgTJohk/UqQpWH_6f6I/AAAAAAAADAw/8z1hFXqL4cQ/s320/IMG_20131019_133619.jpg" height="241" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Iw7WKiRP9n4/UqQpU48W1YI/AAAAAAAADAg/p-bSA2xNJEU/s1600/IMG_20131019_134005.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Iw7WKiRP9n4/UqQpU48W1YI/AAAAAAAADAg/p-bSA2xNJEU/s320/IMG_20131019_134005.jpg" height="241" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GNS9_J9VOoY/UqQpVsiQbnI/AAAAAAAADAo/ZEd1Ierpdh0/s1600/IMG_20131019_134109.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GNS9_J9VOoY/UqQpVsiQbnI/AAAAAAAADAo/ZEd1Ierpdh0/s320/IMG_20131019_134109.jpg" height="241" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ctNVZJdTSLg/UqQpV7AjF9I/AAAAAAAADAs/h8a4dudLNIE/s1600/IMG_20131019_134209.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ctNVZJdTSLg/UqQpV7AjF9I/AAAAAAAADAs/h8a4dudLNIE/s320/IMG_20131019_134209.jpg" height="241" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RNqLd_wTvz0/UqQpWbTNiII/AAAAAAAADA4/RfATKgvywPM/s1600/IMG_20131019_134257.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RNqLd_wTvz0/UqQpWbTNiII/AAAAAAAADA4/RfATKgvywPM/s320/IMG_20131019_134257.jpg" height="241" width="320" /></a></div>
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Make sure you get the trigger in right.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lEK_EjIXjhc/UqQpZObnvZI/AAAAAAAADBk/lHuGxtbU_HY/s1600/IMG_20131019_134358.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lEK_EjIXjhc/UqQpZObnvZI/AAAAAAAADBk/lHuGxtbU_HY/s320/IMG_20131019_134358.jpg" height="241" width="320" /></a></div>
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Press that case back on and make sure you don't miss any screws.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dc3o33ez2a8/UqQpDzBSjEI/AAAAAAAAC8A/diBQqqz4Bk0/s1600/IMG_20131019_0155311.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dc3o33ez2a8/UqQpDzBSjEI/AAAAAAAAC8A/diBQqqz4Bk0/s320/IMG_20131019_0155311.jpg" height="242" width="640" /></a></div>
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All done!</div>
Jordanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03951190922958142729noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5911939370761516849.post-14932846013425759632014-01-08T02:08:00.000-08:002014-01-26T21:28:17.800-08:00Netbook Touchscreen Car PCIn this project I created a touchscreen car PC from an old Gateway netbook I had (the same one from <a href="http://dduino.blogspot.com/2012/12/lt-2115-gateway-netbook-teardown.html">this teardown post</a>). The specs are about just right for what I need for a in car computer: 1.66ghz Atom N450, 1GB ram, GMA 3150 and a 10in 1024x600 display. All it has to do is run XBMC or some media player for listening to music and deal with a few peripherals such as a touch screen, media keys and possibly an OBD II bluetooth reader.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9Xsqxr_sPBQ/UuXmoDMvpDI/AAAAAAAADH4/Osp8baRqrVk/s1600/IMG_20140126_214844.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9Xsqxr_sPBQ/UuXmoDMvpDI/AAAAAAAADH4/Osp8baRqrVk/s1600/IMG_20140126_214844.jpg" height="450" width="640" /></a></div>
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Running some XBMC, but still needs a bit of cleaning up.</div>
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<h3>
Netbook Modifications</h3>
I started off this project by disassembling the netbook as I had done before in my previous post except this time it would go back together a bit differently. I followed what other people have done when making tablets from laptops: remove the lid hinges and flip and rotate the display so that the back is now laying on top of the keyboard. Then, just throw a touchscreen on top. Mine was a bit complicated since there are two wifi antennas (one on each side of the display) and they had different lengths of cable. When I flipped the display the short wire was where the long one needed to be. But with a bit of tinkering i got it all sorted out.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-z94Nzl_xzv8/UsuW3GkBSyI/AAAAAAAADCg/LYmZYv4oQrI/s1600/IMG_20131223_222335.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-z94Nzl_xzv8/UsuW3GkBSyI/AAAAAAAADCg/LYmZYv4oQrI/s1600/IMG_20131223_222335.jpg" height="400" width="301" /></a></div>
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Everything stripped out mostly. Now I can get to those hinges easily.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AMT68Cf51yc/UsuW1BKiXwI/AAAAAAAADCY/Xqm7DAWir1g/s1600/IMG_20140105_213014.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AMT68Cf51yc/UsuW1BKiXwI/AAAAAAAADCY/Xqm7DAWir1g/s1600/IMG_20140105_213014.jpg" height="301" width="400" /></a></div>
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Flipped screen and reassembled.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tUZOuktK0hU/UsuW0mRx9mI/AAAAAAAADCU/IdFEOMkcRZE/s1600/IMG_20140105_213040.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tUZOuktK0hU/UsuW0mRx9mI/AAAAAAAADCU/IdFEOMkcRZE/s1600/IMG_20140105_213040.jpg" height="301" width="400" /></a></div>
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Test fitting and trimming as needed. And some Farscape in the background (awesome show by the way!)</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AcxIRz95M-Q/UsuXIx45HiI/AAAAAAAADC0/uRWzcxdPW3s/s1600/IMG_20140105_221602.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AcxIRz95M-Q/UsuXIx45HiI/AAAAAAAADC0/uRWzcxdPW3s/s1600/IMG_20140105_221602.jpg" height="301" width="400" /></a></div>
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Velcro worked great for holding the display on.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4IXeBv-NTMk/UsuXJvCVkjI/AAAAAAAADCw/oOOEQPBFI4Y/s1600/IMG_20140105_221821.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4IXeBv-NTMk/UsuXJvCVkjI/AAAAAAAADCw/oOOEQPBFI4Y/s1600/IMG_20140105_221821.jpg" height="301" width="400" /></a>.</div>
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Better airflow? (and more Farscape haha)</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Jdk7Xnd6Nmk/UsuXHiF0_PI/AAAAAAAADCo/CvdptR0pGoc/s1600/IMG_20140105_225048.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Jdk7Xnd6Nmk/UsuXHiF0_PI/AAAAAAAADCo/CvdptR0pGoc/s1600/IMG_20140105_225048.jpg" height="301" width="400" /></a></div>
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That's the video cable underneath the duct tape. It has to loop around like that because of the flipped screen. Also, as you can see, i'm putting Ubuntu on this. Windows would be slower and less customizable. I started out with a few different Ubuntu distros in mind, but ended up using 10.04 LTS Netbook edition because it was the first distro I tried and I didn't run into any complications.</div>
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<h3>
Mounting To The Dash </h3>
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An undoubtedly critical part for safety (for me and the netbook) and usability is mounting the netbook to the dash. No duct tape, no glue, it has to be fairly professional while being detachable with a close to stock look after removal. Im currently thinking about those glass suction cups or maybe velcro. <span style="text-align: center;">I am thinking about mounting it above the two center vents. </span> This is what I have to work with:</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-O9_UPUPxRps/UsxmkGJWPeI/AAAAAAAADEc/7Hf_gylTPtM/s1600/chevrolet-prizm-interior-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-O9_UPUPxRps/UsxmkGJWPeI/AAAAAAAADEc/7Hf_gylTPtM/s1600/chevrolet-prizm-interior-2.jpg" height="225" width="400" /></a></div>
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Close to what my car actually looks like</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-J9utj_gtCM0/Usxmhw2C2dI/AAAAAAAADEU/ZJxk6uScM40/s1600/2002_Chevrolet_Prizm_003_autotalk_com_.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-J9utj_gtCM0/Usxmhw2C2dI/AAAAAAAADEU/ZJxk6uScM40/s1600/2002_Chevrolet_Prizm_003_autotalk_com_.jpg" height="263" width="400" /></a></div>
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Shows a bit more of the dash<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qCDrG9kr-ro/UuGgvWH8zvI/AAAAAAAADG8/oF4Ov89f54s/s1600/IMG_20140108_221027.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qCDrG9kr-ro/UuGgvWH8zvI/AAAAAAAADG8/oF4Ov89f54s/s1600/IMG_20140108_221027.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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Sits perfectly on that ledge.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IRFIAqoDRMU/UuXqaqv3ksI/AAAAAAAADII/HycWDtFwLhQ/s1600/IMG_20140126_215742.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IRFIAqoDRMU/UuXqaqv3ksI/AAAAAAAADII/HycWDtFwLhQ/s1600/IMG_20140126_215742.jpg" height="301" width="400" /></a></div>
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Added velcro to the back of the netbook</div>
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<picture of dash with velcro xD></div>
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and some to the dash....</div>
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<h3>
Additional Electronics</h3>
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This part of the project was divided into a few different sub projects. Unfortunately, only part of this section is complete because i'm waiting for parts in the mail or still buying them. </div>
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-touchscreen</div>
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-power for the laptop while in the car </div>
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-engine diagnostics</div>
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-media controls</div>
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<h4>
The Touchscreen</h4>
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Using a laptop in the car (while driving) is ridiculous and very dangerous, so, I opted for a touchscreen which made this project no more "dangerous" than cars with fancy integrated touchscreen control centers. This netbook of course doesn't have a touchscreen so i had to go buy one of those USB touchscreen overlays. You can get a <a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-1-USB-Touch-Screen-DIY-Kit-For-Acer-Aspire-One-ZG8-NAV50-D270-D260-D257-D255-/281199397174?pt=US_Laptop_Screens_LCD_Panels&hash=item4178ca4936">10in touch panel</a> for about 40$ on ebay.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6b-q048chxY/Usw0AFStUbI/AAAAAAAADDE/USGEMyiLECQ/s1600/10in+touch+screen.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6b-q048chxY/Usw0AFStUbI/AAAAAAAADDE/USGEMyiLECQ/s1600/10in+touch+screen.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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What you see in the image above is exactly what I got in a very nicely padded package. I must say I was quite surprised with the level of packaging they put around that screen. It comes with peel off plastic sheets on both sides of the display to protect it also.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iPqZVaQQVs8/UuGgvbXJdOI/AAAAAAAADG0/yQF_SaA8PEc/s1600/IMG_20140123_155809.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iPqZVaQQVs8/UuGgvbXJdOI/AAAAAAAADG0/yQF_SaA8PEc/s1600/IMG_20140123_155809.jpg" height="301" width="400" /></a></div>
Installing it was quite easy, actually. I checked the orientation of the screen (there are a few numbers on the bottom) and then just put some double sided tape on the metal bezel of the LCD and trimmed the excess. After a thorough clean with a microfiber cloth, I carefully aligned the touch panel to the LCD.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qcHsZdbjyhI/UuGhcwXmEoI/AAAAAAAADHM/500jMan-Izo/s1600/IMG_20140112_141706.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qcHsZdbjyhI/UuGhcwXmEoI/AAAAAAAADHM/500jMan-Izo/s1600/IMG_20140112_141706.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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Next, I noted the layout of the wires going into the driver board and removed the connectors so that the board would fit behind the LCD (where the keyboard was). I then removed the usb connector from an old flash drive and soldered some wire to the drive board. Unfortunately, I don't have any internal usb ports like the a lot of the Asus netbooks do. So, i'm left with two usb ports which really is plenty for a car pc.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4lMqE6-WzTI/UuGihmH67EI/AAAAAAAADHU/tthOd6PxuF4/s1600/Ubuntu_10.04_Lucid_Lynx_Netbook_Live_USB.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4lMqE6-WzTI/UuGihmH67EI/AAAAAAAADHU/tthOd6PxuF4/s1600/Ubuntu_10.04_Lucid_Lynx_Netbook_Live_USB.png" height="233" width="400" /></a></div>
Now comes the hard part: getting it to work within Ubuntu. I was quite surprised that the touchscreen worked at all in Ubuntu, because I didn't really know much about Ubuntu's support span: it does seem now that most touchscreens will work out of the box with Ubuntu, just maybe not in the desired way. My screen for example, had the axis swapped and the x axis inverted. I spent days researching and trying out different versions of Ubuntu (none was better than the other in terms of touchscreen support) and other software.<br />
<br />
...Eventually I found the answer.... In order to flip the axes and get my screen working properly I had to modify my 05-evdev.conf file. Evdev is a driver that handles all the keyboard, mouse and similar inputs. This file can be found at <b style="font-style: italic;">/usr/lib/X11/xorg.conf.d/05-evdev.conf</b>. Since this is a system file you'll need root privileges to modify it: the easiest way to do this is to open terminal and run:<br />
<div class="code">
sudo gedit /usr/lib/X11/xorg.conf.d/05-evdev.conf</div>
</div>
<br />
Towards the bottom you'll see something like this:<br />
<div class="code">
Section "InputClass"<br />
Identifier "eGalax"<br />
MatchProduct "eGalax"<br />
MatchDevicePath "/dev/input/event*"<br />
Driver "evdev"<br />
Option "SwapAxes" "off"<br />
EndSection</div>
<br />
It needed to be like this for me:
<br />
<div class="code">
Section "InputClass"<br />
Identifier "eGalax"<br />
MatchProduct "eGalax"<br />
MatchDevicePath "/dev/input/event*"<br />
Driver "evdev"<br />
Option "SwapAxes" "on" #this swaps the x and y axes when set to "on"<br />
Option "InvertX" "on"<br />
Option "InvertY" "off" #for inverting y, if needed<br />
Option "Calibration" "89 12854 120 32767" #calibrates the touchscreen<br />
EndSection</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dqajIi1FwWI/UuGmYrIkdLI/AAAAAAAADHg/tfcLfWxampI/s1600/calibration-touchscreen.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dqajIi1FwWI/UuGmYrIkdLI/AAAAAAAADHg/tfcLfWxampI/s1600/calibration-touchscreen.png" height="301" width="400" /></a></div>
Once I rebooted the axes were finally correct and I just had to calibrate the screen. To do this I used <b><i>xinput_calibrator</i></b> (not found in the repos, use <a href="https://github.com/downloads/tias/xinput_calibrator/xinput-calibrator_0.7.5-1ubuntu1_i386.deb">this link</a>). Once installed, it can be found in the system menus or by running xinput_calibrator in terminal. After pressing all the cross-hairs (use a stylus to get that precision) it will give you a string of numbers similar to 89<i> 12854 120 32767</i> that you see above. Simply paste these into the 05-evdev.conf file and reboot. For some reason my calibration wouldn't "stick" so I copied the command it also gives you after the calibration and created a startup program (also found in system menus).<br />
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<h4>
Charging The Computer While Driving</h4>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-O3WVTDmw50w/Usxf2fFcwCI/AAAAAAAADEA/mb150JAh0Hw/s1600/lm2587.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-O3WVTDmw50w/Usxf2fFcwCI/AAAAAAAADEA/mb150JAh0Hw/s1600/lm2587.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
The easiest, but also most expensive (and least fun haha) way to accomplish this would be to get a 12v DC to 120v AC adapter and just use the power brick that comes with the computer. I instead choose to simply convert the 12v DC to 19v DC (the voltage the computer needs) with a boost converter. 19v is not a standard voltage regulator voltage so I had to use an adjustable boost converter. My other laptop also uses a 19v power brick so I can now charge either of my laptops while in the car!</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-c4DvYtmL3GQ/UuXqaZkbl9I/AAAAAAAADIE/ji-BGOKKgpE/s1600/IMG_20140126_215849.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-c4DvYtmL3GQ/UuXqaZkbl9I/AAAAAAAADIE/ji-BGOKKgpE/s1600/IMG_20140126_215849.jpg" height="257" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mjE-ZhgXmKI/UuXqaqOrdGI/AAAAAAAADIM/iR6mDiY8ixU/s1600/IMG_20140126_220127.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mjE-ZhgXmKI/UuXqaqOrdGI/AAAAAAAADIM/iR6mDiY8ixU/s1600/IMG_20140126_220127.jpg" height="261" width="400" /></a></div>
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Before I learned that my other laptop was also 19v, I found exactly what I needed: the LM2577, a 3A general purpose boost converter. The netbook claims it needs about 2.2A @ 19v to charge so 3A should provide a good safety net and reduce heat because its not maxing out the converter all the time. My other laptop however, needs 4.4A @ 19v to charge. So then I had to find another similar, but higher rated boost converter. This time it was a LM2587 5A converter, although, the data sheet said the max current was 9A, the typical was 6.6A, and the min was 5A so im not sure why its a 5A regulator. Either way it should be just fine.</div>
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Originally, I wasn't so sure about using a boost converter. They use flyback transformers and inductors to "step up" the voltage and I haven't had any experience with these components. But with a bit of reading around and looking at the datasheet I realized they're not that all complicated to use. It tells you the specifications it needs to have to work in the provided circuit diagram and electronics are a bit lenient. </div>
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Then I obtained all the necessary parts for the converter. I got a free sample of the TI LM2587 and I ordered the passive components from Mouser. <a href="https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=c5bbf211db">Here is a link</a> to the shopping cart for all the passive components. Note: you only need one of each item per LM2587 converter. In the circuit diagram R1 and R2 determine the output voltage of the LM2587 and to calculate it, the following equation is provided: <i><b>Vout = Vref (1 + R1/R2)</b></i>. Vout is the voltage you want, Vref is internally set to 1.23v, and R1 and R2 are the values you have to find. Obviously you cant find two unknown values in an equation, so you have to guess and check. For example:<br />
<br />
Vout = Vref (1 + R1/R2)<br />
Vout/Vref = 1 + R1/R2<br />
(Vout/Vref) - 1 = R1/R2<br />
R2 = R1/((Vout/Vref) - 1) <--simplified equation (yes, your teachers were right, math is useful o.O haha)<br />
R2 = R1/((19v/1.23v) - 1)<br />
R2 = R1/14.447<br />
<br />
Now all we have to do is put any resistor value in for R1 and the equation will find the proper value for R2 that will make the converter produce 19v. The hard part is getting two values that are close to a standard resistor value. I saw in the datasheet that R1 was always bigger than R2, for example 50K vs 2K for R2. So, i tried 82K which gave me 5.67K for R2, but there is no resistor with that resistance. However, when R1 = 68K, R2 = 4.706K and there is a standard value 4.7K resistor. I have found the perfect set of resistors!<br />
<br />
And finally the info. <a href="http://www.ti.com/product/lm2587">Here is the TI product page</a> and <a href="http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/lm2587.pdf">here is the datasheet</a>. Below you will find the circuit diagram for the adjustable LM2587 that is found in the datasheet:<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_4XVINLFe_w/Usw_pcAGFzI/AAAAAAAADDU/CYKh4b18Q60/s1600/lm2587+adj+circuit.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_4XVINLFe_w/Usw_pcAGFzI/AAAAAAAADDU/CYKh4b18Q60/s1600/lm2587+adj+circuit.png" height="280" width="640" /></a></div>
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<h4>
ELM327 OBD II Bluetooth Adapter</h4>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GhPwAlzzgyg/UsxCUF4JdfI/AAAAAAAADDg/lseDeYgLUSI/s1600/elm327.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GhPwAlzzgyg/UsxCUF4JdfI/AAAAAAAADDg/lseDeYgLUSI/s1600/elm327.jpg" height="320" width="320" /></a></div>
At some point I hope to add a engine status screen to the laptop so i can see more advance engine data while driving. These bluetooth adapters are a great way to do it. You can find them for 10 to 20 dollars on ebay and amazon (or pretty much anywhere) by searching for ELM327 OBD II. If you have an Android tablet the best option is to use an app called Torque with these adapters. Im guessing there's already a program for reading these things and if not it probably just a serial data stream which i can easily manipulate.</div>
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<h4>
Media Controls </h4>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Q3VO2xlyojE/UsxUo5dtFfI/AAAAAAAADDw/J1VzclyuFYU/s1600/media+knob.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Q3VO2xlyojE/UsxUo5dtFfI/AAAAAAAADDw/J1VzclyuFYU/s1600/media+knob.jpg" height="253" width="320" /></a></div>
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Even if it is a touch screen it'd still be nice to have some sort of physical media controller to use. I was thinking of using one of those encoder style knobs found in fancy cars that they use to control the user interface. It sorta reminds me of those <a href="http://store.griffintechnology.com/powermate">Griffin PowerMates</a> that you see Mac people (more) commonly use.<br />
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Jordanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03951190922958142729noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5911939370761516849.post-62610400005965960572013-12-07T23:35:00.005-08:002014-01-27T10:24:54.843-08:00An Arduino DIY Tachometer DisplayThe goal of this project was to create some sort of display that would retrieve and display the rpm signal in an easy to read manor. I thought it would be nice to see this information while driving to see how the engine and the transmission react to different conditions. Though it maybe phased out by my <a href="http://dduino.blogspot.com/2014/01/netbook-touchscreen-car-pc.html">custom touchscreen media center</a> i'm working on now. That device would use a bluetooth OBDII reader that would give me much more than just rpm.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-C2MAkPXumJQ/UqQgo15qY6I/AAAAAAAAC7w/kCt1f5ZJgV4/s1600/IMG_20131208_002111.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-C2MAkPXumJQ/UqQgo15qY6I/AAAAAAAAC7w/kCt1f5ZJgV4/s400/IMG_20131208_002111.jpg" height="225" width="640" /></a></div>
<h3>
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<h3>
Retrieve The TACH Signal </h3>
<ul>
<li>Gas Engines</li>
<ul>
<li>Diagnostic Port </li>
<li>Find the TACH signal from the ECU </li>
<li>IGN signal from diagnostic conenctor in engine bay</li>
<li>Negative connection on distributor (if applicable)</li>
<li>Wrap wire around a spark plug. </li>
</ul>
<li>Diesel Engines</li>
<ul>
<li>Diagnostic Port</li>
<li>TACH signal from ECU</li>
<li>Sensor on Alternator output (before the rectifier diodes)</li>
<li>Hall effect or IR sensor mounted behind a pulley. should be able to count how fast the holes in the pulley go by. (Technically this would work on a gas engine too)</li>
</ul>
</ul>
There is more in depth info on the internet, of course, just search like: <a href="https://www.google.com/search?q=diesel+rpm+hall+effect+sensor">diesel rpm hall effect sensor</a>. I've already tried the <a href="http://dduino.blogspot.com/2013/04/obduino-project.html">OBD method</a> and it wont connect to my car (or any other car) for some reason, so i'm gonna try the second gas method: find an ECU TACH signal. <br />
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<h3>
What You'll Need</h3>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-J4NtYL4mR1o/UeMBoDb9saI/AAAAAAAACv0/GgaXkQcbR84/s1600/20130714132728.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-J4NtYL4mR1o/UeMBoDb9saI/AAAAAAAACv0/GgaXkQcbR84/s400/20130714132728.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<ul>
<li>Arduino (or any other micro, i guess)</li>
<ul>
<li>I used an Arduino Leonardo and later a atmega 328p with uno bootloader to make it fit better in the car. </li>
</ul>
<li>A method to get the tach signal as seen in the beginning of the post </li>
<ul>
<li>I spliced the tach wire from the ECU</li>
</ul>
<li>Assortment of small / pasive components</li>
<ul>
<li>7 150 ohm resistors</li>
<li>4 1 kohm resistors</li>
<li>4 2N3409 NPNs rated 140ma or more. </li>
</ul>
<li>Wire</li>
<ul>
<li>Used some ribbon cable for the tach signal</li>
<li>Heavier stuff for gnd and power </li>
</ul>
<li>PCB</li>
<ul>
<li>Possibly used for final 328p build</li>
</ul>
<li>Tools </li>
<ul>
<li>Soldering iron</li>
<li>Multimeter </li>
<li>Wire stripper</li>
<li>Knife </li>
<li>Markers</li>
<li>screw drivers etc</li>
</ul>
<li>Interface to show RPMs </li>
<ul>
<li>LEDs (1 per 1000 rpm?)</li>
<li>Segment display</li>
<ul>
<li>I used two 2 digit 7 segment displays for 4 digits total. </li>
</ul>
<li>Serial character LCD</li>
<li>Some sort of DIY tach dial</li>
<li>Etc</li>
</ul>
</ul>
<h3>
</h3>
<h3>
Some Theory Crap </h3>
<h4>
The Segment Display</h4>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XdOn7_UzkKQ/UeMGGHOgA-I/AAAAAAAACwU/CLDIN5xfvlQ/s1600/MAN6940.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XdOn7_UzkKQ/UeMGGHOgA-I/AAAAAAAACwU/CLDIN5xfvlQ/s320/MAN6940.JPG" height="320" width="320" /></a></div>
<h4 style="text-align: center;">
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Segment displays always have a shape of a number 8 while un-powered, but when of these segments are lit by a LED (that lights only that section) it can create any digit between 0 and 9. The color of the digit and the color of the LED changed the final illuminated color. They also generally have a common cathode (ground) or anode (positive). That means if it was common cathode, all the ground ends of the segment LEDs would be connected and would go to ground. To turn on a segment, you simply connect one anode of a segment LED to positive voltage and it will flow through to ground via the common cathode (but not any other segment). I must also note that most segment displays don't have resistors included, so you must have your own externally just like a regular 5mm LED.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fNKBMtLZUWA/UeME1ytf2EI/AAAAAAAACwE/4Z2sNhFygmk/s1600/seven_seg_ca_sch.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fNKBMtLZUWA/UeME1ytf2EI/AAAAAAAACwE/4Z2sNhFygmk/s400/seven_seg_ca_sch.gif" height="177" width="400" /></a></div>
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Here is an example internal scheme of a common anode segment display. Positive voltage will always be applied to the anode point, but nothing will light until a ground is connected to one of the letter points. </div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JZtU_QrTC_k/UeMHvTtr0DI/AAAAAAAACwo/FlONnwfDmfc/s1600/2ext+labeled+digits.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JZtU_QrTC_k/UeMHvTtr0DI/AAAAAAAACwo/FlONnwfDmfc/s320/2ext+labeled+digits.png" height="261" width="320" /></a></div>
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In this image you can see how the segments are labeled. This is very important when it comes to programming. </div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-j988a3gVp34/UeMIJQkzO4I/AAAAAAAACw4/EY0qSwbZjdU/s1600/2internal+scheme.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-j988a3gVp34/UeMIJQkzO4I/AAAAAAAACw4/EY0qSwbZjdU/s640/2internal+scheme.png" height="539" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
This image helped figure out how to wire the segments and the correct orientation of the display. The left image is a top vied of the display. In all theses images of the display in this post you can see the DP or points and they are how i knew the orientation of the pins. It's kinda hard to explain but the bottom of the display has the points, of course, and we see that the scheme has 1 starting on the bottom left with the points on the bottom. <br />
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<h4>
Multiplexing The Display</h4>
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Ok, lets get to the MP (multiplex) explanation. MP works because of POV or persistence of vision. A good example of POV is a LED that is changing in brightness. By switching the LED on and off really fast it looks like the LED is changing in brightness. When its dimming the LED is blinking off more than it is blinking ON. So: full brightness = on all the time, off none of the time. half brightness = on half the time, off the other half. These "halves" are just fractions of seconds. The human eye cant see it blinking because its doing it so fast. </div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qx8dQ91kfCM/UeMPCRAbZlI/AAAAAAAACxI/nMdCnR93vbk/s1600/Lab11_Circuit_SevenSegmentMultiplexing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qx8dQ91kfCM/UeMPCRAbZlI/AAAAAAAACxI/nMdCnR93vbk/s640/Lab11_Circuit_SevenSegmentMultiplexing.jpg" height="412" width="640" /></a></div>
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Lets say you have a scheme like above. All the "a" segments are connected and go to pin "a" on the Arduino and so on and so forth for b to g. All of the pins are currently "LOW". Then you turn "a" HIGH, but nothing happens. Then "digit 1" is HIGH and segment "a" of digit 1 lights up. Then digits 2, 3, and 4 are HIGH and now all the "a" segments are on. Lets say you wanted a 9 on digit 1 so "a", "f", "g", "b", and "c" are high, but now all the digits have a 9 so digits 2, 3, and 4 are LOW to make just digit 1 have a 9. but what if you want to have digit 2 have an 8 too. making all the segments and digit 2 HIGH would cause digit 1 to have a 8 too. </div>
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This is how you'd have a 9 on digit 1 and a 8 on digit 2: "a", "f", "g", "b", and "c" are HIGH and then digit 1 is high. Then digit 1 is LOW. "e" and "d" are HIGH. Then digit 2 is HIGH. Then digit 2 is LOW. "e" and "d"are LOW. REPEAT. That whole digit 1 off then digit 2 on thing is happening so fast it looks like digit 1 never turned off and digit 2 is being controlled separately. </div>
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In coding reality this is done much faster than on / off. The theory is the same for doing 4 digits. If enough digits are added either the Arduino (this first) or the electronics wouldn't be fast enough and it would look like some are off or dimming.</div>
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</h4>
<h4 style="text-align: left;">
Using the TACH Signal</h4>
<div style="text-align: left;">
This greatly depends on what signal you use. If you're grabbing the signal from the ECU it will probably be a 12v square wave. The way i figured it out was partly do to forums and just simple logic of what the multimeter is reading. I put one lead to GND and the other to the TACH wire and then flipped through the multimeter settings. DC gave nothing (so not PWM), AC gave nothing (would be strange anyways), but Hz did read something. It idled at about 150Hz and the Hz went up as i revved the engine, so from that I figured it out without a oscilloscope. <a href="https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10388">This</a>, <a href="http://www.nkcelectronics.com/digital-storage-oscilloscope-very-low-cost.html">this</a>, or <a href="http://www.nkcelectronics.com/dso-nano-v2.html">this </a>would've been nice though.</div>
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<a href="http://www.electronics2000.co.uk/images/calc/divider.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://www.electronics2000.co.uk/images/calc/divider.png" /></a></div>
Since the ECU is 12v, I will need to need to get it to a 5v level the arduino can comprehend without blowing up. A level converter could be used but for my first test ill just use a voltage divider. It uses two resistors in a ratio to "divide" the voltage. A calculator can be <a href="http://www.electronics2000.co.uk/calc/potential-divider-calculator.php">found here</a>.</div>
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<h3 style="text-align: left;">
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<h3 style="text-align: left;">
The Build</h3>
<h4 style="text-align: left;">
Segment Display</h4>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JVnqcMi2cm4/UeMG5jocAiI/AAAAAAAACwc/lWT0J8_h6as/s1600/20130714151408.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JVnqcMi2cm4/UeMG5jocAiI/AAAAAAAACwc/lWT0J8_h6as/s400/20130714151408.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
If the heading wasn't obvious enough, the first thing I did was to make the segment display module. Since I was doing this with only parts I had on hand and a segment display was one of the easier things to make (second to the LEDs, but that doesn't provide enough feedback). I was thinking of what my display should be and I remembered the segment displays I got from somewhere (no idea hah) and thought they'd do the job just fine. Then the debate was how many digits would I use? One and just do it per 1000 RPM? nah lame. I decided to go with the full number for ex: 4211 RPM. I cleaned off the solder blobs (I had previously used these) and glued the two displays together for the four in the picture. I also put a simple PCB underneath it to make it more stable and soldering easier. I also "sharpied" the white / red case to make it look better.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-C2MAkPXumJQ/UqQgo15qY6I/AAAAAAAAC7w/kCt1f5ZJgV4/s1600/IMG_20131208_002111.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-C2MAkPXumJQ/UqQgo15qY6I/AAAAAAAAC7w/kCt1f5ZJgV4/s400/IMG_20131208_002111.jpg" height="141" width="400" /></a></div>
Here's a good ol' classic lesson for all of us (again). Test the parts before you put them together; apparently one of the LEDs went out on the display, so the project stopped for a bit. I ordered a combined 4 digit 7 segment display for about two dollars (connecting the two segments was a pain anyways). This one is a Common Cathode design so I used a ULN2003 instead of the annoying individual PNP transistors from the Common Anode display. Instead of going full speed ahead, this time I built just the segment display on a bread board with an arduino and the ULN2003.<br />
<div>
<br />
<div class="code">
#define digit1Pin 3<br />
#define digit2Pin 5<br />
#define digit3Pin 6<br />
#define digit4Pin 9<br />
<br />
#define segAPin 2<br />
#define segBPin 4<br />
#define segCPin 7<br />
#define segDPin 8<br />
#define segEPin 10<br />
#define segFPin 11<br />
#define segGPin 12<br />
<br />
// variable for storing separate<br />
// digits<br />
int oneDigit = 0; // ones<br />
int tenDigit = 0; // tenths<br />
int hunDigit = 0; // hundreds<br />
int thoDigit = 0; // thousands<br />
<br />
long previousMillis = 0; // will store last time random number was changed<br />
long interval = 750; // interval<br />
<br />
byte currentDigit = 0;<br />
<br />
<br />
void setup() {<br />
//Serial.begin(9600);<br />
for(int x=2; x<13; x++)<br />
{<br />
pinMode(x,OUTPUT);<br />
digitalWrite(x, LOW); <br />
}<br />
<br />
FullDigitFlash(100,3); //time in miliseconds, repeat flash x times<br />
}<br />
<br />
void loop() {<br />
//this needs to be on a seperate loop so the multiplexing can work<br />
unsigned long currentMillis = millis(); // log where we are in terms of the next number<br />
if(currentMillis - previousMillis > interval) //check if we want to get a new number<br />
{<br />
// save the last time you blinked the LED<br />
previousMillis = currentMillis; <br />
<br />
CalculateDisplayNumber(random(0,10000)); //I can put in any number i want here<br />
}<br />
<br />
DigitUpdate();<br />
delayMicroseconds(100); //make digits show proper brigtness. with out this the lighting looked uneven<br />
}<br />
<br />
void CalculateDisplayNumber(int numberToDisplay)<br />
{<br />
// extra variable for storing<br />
// other mathematical operations<br />
int hundreds = 0;<br />
int tenths = 0;<br />
<br />
// two prelimenary operations<br />
hundreds = numberToDisplay % 1000;<br />
tenths = hundreds % 100;<br />
<br />
// separating the ones digit<br />
oneDigit = tenths % 10;<br />
// separating the tenths digit<br />
tenDigit = (tenths - oneDigit)/10;<br />
// separating the hundreds digit<br />
hunDigit = (hundreds - tenths)/100;<br />
// separating the thousands digit<br />
thoDigit = (numberToDisplay - hundreds)/1000;<br />
}<br />
<br />
void DisplayANumber(byte digitToDisplay, byte numberToDisplay)<br />
{<br />
<br />
if(numberToDisplay == 0)<br />
{<br />
digitalWrite(segAPin,HIGH);<br />
digitalWrite(segBPin,HIGH);<br />
digitalWrite(segCPin,HIGH);<br />
digitalWrite(segDPin,HIGH);<br />
digitalWrite(segEPin,HIGH);<br />
digitalWrite(segFPin,HIGH);<br />
digitalWrite(segGPin,LOW);<br />
}<br />
else if(numberToDisplay == 1)<br />
{<br />
digitalWrite(segAPin,LOW);<br />
digitalWrite(segBPin,HIGH);<br />
digitalWrite(segCPin,HIGH);<br />
digitalWrite(segDPin,LOW);<br />
digitalWrite(segEPin,LOW);<br />
digitalWrite(segFPin,LOW);<br />
digitalWrite(segGPin,LOW);<br />
}<br />
else if(numberToDisplay == 2)<br />
{<br />
digitalWrite(segAPin,HIGH);<br />
digitalWrite(segBPin,HIGH);<br />
digitalWrite(segCPin,LOW);<br />
digitalWrite(segDPin,HIGH);<br />
digitalWrite(segEPin,HIGH);<br />
digitalWrite(segFPin,LOW);<br />
digitalWrite(segGPin,HIGH);<br />
}<br />
else if(numberToDisplay == 3)<br />
{<br />
digitalWrite(segAPin,HIGH);<br />
digitalWrite(segBPin,HIGH);<br />
digitalWrite(segCPin,HIGH);<br />
digitalWrite(segDPin,HIGH);<br />
digitalWrite(segEPin,LOW);<br />
digitalWrite(segFPin,LOW);<br />
digitalWrite(segGPin,HIGH);<br />
}<br />
else if(numberToDisplay == 4)<br />
{<br />
digitalWrite(segAPin,LOW);<br />
digitalWrite(segBPin,HIGH);<br />
digitalWrite(segCPin,HIGH);<br />
digitalWrite(segDPin,LOW);<br />
digitalWrite(segEPin,LOW);<br />
digitalWrite(segFPin,HIGH);<br />
digitalWrite(segGPin,HIGH);<br />
}<br />
else if(numberToDisplay == 5)<br />
{<br />
digitalWrite(segAPin,HIGH);<br />
digitalWrite(segBPin,LOW);<br />
digitalWrite(segCPin,HIGH);<br />
digitalWrite(segDPin,HIGH);<br />
digitalWrite(segEPin,LOW);<br />
digitalWrite(segFPin,HIGH);<br />
digitalWrite(segGPin,HIGH);<br />
}<br />
else if(numberToDisplay == 6)<br />
{<br />
digitalWrite(segAPin,HIGH);<br />
digitalWrite(segBPin,LOW);<br />
digitalWrite(segCPin,HIGH);<br />
digitalWrite(segDPin,HIGH);<br />
digitalWrite(segEPin,HIGH);<br />
digitalWrite(segFPin,HIGH);<br />
digitalWrite(segGPin,HIGH);<br />
}<br />
else if(numberToDisplay == 7)<br />
{<br />
digitalWrite(segAPin,HIGH);<br />
digitalWrite(segBPin,HIGH);<br />
digitalWrite(segCPin,HIGH);<br />
digitalWrite(segDPin,LOW);<br />
digitalWrite(segEPin,LOW);<br />
digitalWrite(segFPin,LOW);<br />
digitalWrite(segGPin,LOW);<br />
}<br />
else if(numberToDisplay == 8)<br />
{<br />
digitalWrite(segAPin,HIGH);<br />
digitalWrite(segBPin,HIGH);<br />
digitalWrite(segCPin,HIGH);<br />
digitalWrite(segDPin,HIGH);<br />
digitalWrite(segEPin,HIGH);<br />
digitalWrite(segFPin,HIGH);<br />
digitalWrite(segGPin,HIGH);<br />
}<br />
else if(numberToDisplay == 9)<br />
{<br />
digitalWrite(segAPin,HIGH);<br />
digitalWrite(segBPin,HIGH);<br />
digitalWrite(segCPin,HIGH);<br />
digitalWrite(segDPin,LOW);<br />
digitalWrite(segEPin,LOW);<br />
digitalWrite(segFPin,HIGH);<br />
digitalWrite(segGPin,HIGH);<br />
}<br />
<br />
if(digitToDisplay == 1)<br />
{<br />
digitalWrite(digit1Pin, HIGH);<br />
}<br />
else if (digitToDisplay == 2)<br />
{<br />
digitalWrite(digit2Pin, HIGH);<br />
}<br />
else if (digitToDisplay == 3)<br />
{<br />
digitalWrite(digit3Pin, HIGH);<br />
}<br />
else if (digitToDisplay == 4)<br />
{<br />
digitalWrite(digit4Pin, HIGH);<br />
}<br />
}<br />
<br />
void DigitUpdate()<br />
{<br />
<br />
if(currentDigit==0)<br />
{<br />
digitalWrite(digit1Pin, LOW);<br />
digitalWrite(digit2Pin, LOW);<br />
digitalWrite(digit3Pin, LOW);<br />
digitalWrite(digit4Pin, LOW);<br />
DisplayANumber(1,thoDigit);<br />
currentDigit++;<br />
}<br />
else if(currentDigit==1)<br />
{<br />
digitalWrite(digit1Pin, LOW);<br />
digitalWrite(digit2Pin, LOW);<br />
digitalWrite(digit3Pin, LOW);<br />
digitalWrite(digit4Pin, LOW);<br />
DisplayANumber(2,hunDigit);<br />
currentDigit++;<br />
}<br />
else if(currentDigit==2)<br />
{<br />
digitalWrite(digit1Pin, LOW);<br />
digitalWrite(digit2Pin, LOW);<br />
digitalWrite(digit3Pin, LOW);<br />
digitalWrite(digit4Pin, LOW);<br />
DisplayANumber(3,tenDigit);<br />
currentDigit++;<br />
}<br />
else if(currentDigit==3)<br />
{<br />
digitalWrite(digit1Pin, LOW);<br />
digitalWrite(digit2Pin, LOW);<br />
digitalWrite(digit3Pin, LOW);<br />
digitalWrite(digit4Pin, LOW);<br />
DisplayANumber(4,oneDigit);<br />
currentDigit=0;<br />
}<br />
}<br />
<br />
void FullDigitFlash(int time, byte repeatTimes)<br />
{ <br />
for(int y = 0; y<repeatTimes; y++)<br />
{<br />
for(int x=2; x<13; x++)<br />
{<br />
digitalWrite(x,HIGH);<br />
}<br />
delay(time);<br />
for(int x=2; x<13; x++)<br />
{<br />
digitalWrite(x,LOW);<br />
}<br />
delay(time);<br />
}<br />
}</div>
<br />
Then I got some code working (see below) that picks a random number and displays it on the segments. Now i just have to get the motivation to go out in the cold and get the arduino reading the tach signal. I did go with the ECU method, so its just 12v, GND, and the tach signal wires hanging out of my dash.</div>
</div>
Jordanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03951190922958142729noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5911939370761516849.post-70758488026122002502013-11-27T19:46:00.001-08:002014-01-27T10:43:48.818-08:00Using ADB and fastboot With Your Android Device<span style="font-family: inherit;">If you have found this page you are probably frantically looking for some fastboot or adb command and that's what I will give you - scroll to the end of the post and you'll find examples. For all you other people who are not freaking out about their bricked or non-booting phone...continue on. haha. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YHBpE807DsQ/Uuaos4GLaGI/AAAAAAAADIs/aqQgx4_pzzU/s1600/android_awesome.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YHBpE807DsQ/Uuaos4GLaGI/AAAAAAAADIs/aqQgx4_pzzU/s1600/android_awesome.jpg" height="171" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
</div>
<h3>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">What Are fastboot And ADB</span></h3>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">fastboot and adb are two programs found in the Android development SDK that allow you to transfer files, install programs, flash images, and run commands on your Android phone. Another thing to note: ADB can only connect to your phone while it is in recovery or booted into the OS. fastboot can only be used when your device is in bootloader mode. Finally, one of the most important things (i think) in terms of android is to </span>access<span style="font-family: inherit;"> the bootloader: turn off your device and hold <b style="font-style: italic;">Power </b><i><b>and</b> </i><b style="font-style: italic;">Volume Down</b> at the same time. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"></span><br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<h3>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Where Can I Get Them?</span></h3>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">This SDK (<a href="http://developer.android.com/sdk/index.html#ExistingIDE">download here</a>) contains all the stuff you need to develop programs for android and is a fairly large file accordingly. Luckily, someone has taken just adb and fastboot and packaged them into a <b><i>"minimal" installer which can be </i></b></span><a href="http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=42407269" style="font-family: inherit;"><b><i>found here</i></b></a><span style="font-family: inherit;">. I would </span>recommend<span style="font-family: inherit;"> installing it to the root of your hard drive (C:\ most likely) </span>because<span style="font-family: inherit;"> it greatly simplifies using the command prompt. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">I must also note that these tools can mess up your phone if used improperly, so, make sure you have the correct file or know what you are doing. Not to take away from that, but most times the incorrect rom or apk etc will just crash and you can easily remove it and then flash again.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<br />
<h3>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Prep</span></h3>
<div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">1. adb or fastboot?</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"> a.<b><i> For fastboot</i></b>: Power Off your phone and get to the bootloader (Power and Volume Down for most phones) and select fastboot. If power/volume down doesnt work, you could use adb to reboot into the bootloader (See the adb example section)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"> b. <b><i>For adb</i></b>: boot into recovery mode or stay inside the android OS and enable USB Debugging.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;">2. <b><i>Connect your device</i></b> via the USB port to your computer.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;">3. First thing for the computer side you need is an <b><i>open a command prompt</i></b>. Open the start menu and search for cmd. You can also press <i style="font-weight: bold;">Windows Key and 'R'</i>, type cmd and press enter</span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">4. Then we'll need to<b><i> change to the directory</i></b> where we installed the minimal fast boot and ADB. For example: </span></div>
<div>
<div class="code">
cd "C:\Minimal ADB and Fastboot"</div>
5. Now we are in the directory where adb and fastboot are stored so all we need to do is type fastboot or adb and then the rest of the command.<br />
<br />
<b><i>An alternative</i></b> is to simply click on the Minimal ADB and fastboot icon that the installer makes on your desktop. it will open a command prompt and get you to the correct directory. If you are a cmd "noob" this is the way to go. Again, i must warn you, if you are smart enough to see yourself as a "noob" i'd think that you are smart enough not to try this unless you know exactly what you are getting into and their repercussions.<br />
<br />
<br />
<h3>
fastboot Examples</h3>
<div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Check to see if your device is recognized </span><br />
<br />
<div class="code">
fastboot devices</div>
<br />
It can reboot your device and reboot it into the bootloader or recovery etc<br />
<br />
<div class="code">
fastboot reboot<br />
fastboot reboot bootloader<br />
fastboot reboot recovery</div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Using fastboot to flash a new recovery</span><span style="font-family: inherit;">, system</span><span style="font-family: inherit;">, radio</span><span style="font-family: inherit;">, or kernel etc firmware file. </span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="code">
fastboot flash recovery C:\path\to\MyRecoveryFirmware.img</div>
<br />
Using fastboot to erase some partition on the device. This example will erase the system partition on your android device. This can also be used on the recovery, boot, or radio partitions for example.<br />
<br />
<div class="code">
fastboot erase system</div>
<br />
To wipe system, data, and the cache at the same time (would be used before a new rom for example)<br />
<br />
<div class="code">
fastboot erase system -w</div>
<br />
fastboot can be used to reboot your device:<br />
<br />
<div class="code">
fastboot reboot</div>
<br />
Using fastboot to lock / unlock your bootloader (note: to unlock your bootloader you'll most likely need a file from your devices' manufacture. look up how to unlock your specific device on google.)<br />
<br />
<div class="code">
fastboot oem lock<br />
fastboot oem unlock</div>
<br />
For using RUU's you'll need to lock the boot loader and then reboot into RUU mode<br />
<br />
<div class="code">
fastboot oem rebootRUU</div>
<br />
To find all commands your particular phone supports
<br />
<div class="code">
fastboot oem ?</div>
or<br />
<div class="code">
fastboot</div>
<br />
<h3>
adb Examples</h3>
<div>
Similar to fastboot, adb also has a devices command which will list the found compatible devices connected</div>
<br />
<div class="code">
adb devices</div>
<br />
It can also, like fastboot, reboot your device and reboot it into the bootloader or recovery etc<br />
<br />
<div class="code">
adb reboot<br />
adb reboot bootloader<br />
adb reboot recovery</div>
<br />
Getting logcats for diagnostics<br />
<br />
<div class="code">
adb logcat > logcat.txt</div>
or
<br />
<div class="code">
adb logcat -v long > logcat.txt</div>
<br />
Install an application (apk format) from your hard drive to the device<br />
<br />
<div class="code">
adb install "C:\path\to\apk.apk"</div>
<br />
Using push to move a file or directory from your computer to the device<br />
<br />
<div class="code">
adb push C:\path\to\file /path/on/device</div>
<br />
Copying a file or directory from your device to your computer
<br />
<br />
<div class="code">
adb pull /path/on/device C:\path\on\computer</div>
<br />
ADB can also be used to access the terminal shell on your device
<br />
<br />
<div class="code">
adb shell</div>
<br />
Then you can run standard linux shell commands from your computer on your device. Here are a few that you'll probably need
<br />
<br />
<div class="code">
su: root privileges<br />
du: Shows file folders and size<br />
ls: Shows list of directory<br />
cd: Changes directory<br />
rm: Removes a file or directory<br />
cp: copy file or folder</div>
<br />
Sometimes you'll get an error about read/write or access denied. this is because the file system isn't mounted as read/write. Use this command to remount the file system:<br />
<br />
<div class="code">
mount -o rw,remount /</div>
<br />
Note: these are basic guidelines or references to using adb and fastboot, and is not a guide to unlocking, rooting, or flashing a rom.</div>
Jordanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03951190922958142729noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5911939370761516849.post-46647950193904974222013-10-22T14:35:00.001-07:002014-01-27T10:34:03.614-08:00SDSMT FSAE Adventures?<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Now that i'm in college i can finally join clubs that i can actually do fun stuff in. High school robotics was ok, but that doesn't compare to racing a Formula SAE car around a track. My college has had this program for a while so we have some older cars for new students to drive (dubbed the 03 car). It had some issues so we had to fix those first before driving.</div>
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iUN_CUR7ZBk/UmDeBZnWpbI/AAAAAAAAC28/zPYnIvLFByM/s1600/IMG_20131017_221208.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iUN_CUR7ZBk/UmDeBZnWpbI/AAAAAAAAC28/zPYnIvLFByM/s640/IMG_20131017_221208.jpg" height="482" width="640" /></a><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
This is the 2003 car for new drivers. 2012 car seen on left</div>
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New uprights being installed. </div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YPSflsNcr8Y/UmDeALcVOPI/AAAAAAAAC2Y/M5h4mJE8SUk/s1600/IMG_20131017_194707.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YPSflsNcr8Y/UmDeALcVOPI/AAAAAAAAC2Y/M5h4mJE8SUk/s640/IMG_20131017_194707.jpg" height="482" width="640" /></a></div>
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Wheel centers ready to be greased + bearings</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KNV0KSCOZrs/UmDeAAFqYGI/AAAAAAAAC2k/wwP3wkWNmxk/s1600/IMG_20131017_194717.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KNV0KSCOZrs/UmDeAAFqYGI/AAAAAAAAC2k/wwP3wkWNmxk/s640/IMG_20131017_194717.jpg" height="482" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-x96m7p_zU2U/UmDeAyz9yiI/AAAAAAAAC2o/KMCKh9rVqV4/s1600/IMG_20131017_194742.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-x96m7p_zU2U/UmDeAyz9yiI/AAAAAAAAC2o/KMCKh9rVqV4/s640/IMG_20131017_194742.jpg" height="482" width="640" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-t9imugvEsqg/UmDeB9hvgXI/AAAAAAAAC3M/jelwB6eHgVY/s1600/IMG_20131017_221233.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-t9imugvEsqg/UmDeB9hvgXI/AAAAAAAAC3M/jelwB6eHgVY/s640/IMG_20131017_221233.jpg" height="482" width="640" /></a><br />
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Everything installed -- bleeding brakes.</div>
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The pedals and the master cylinder open for the front disk brakes</div>
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Oil system upclose</div>
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<object class="BLOGGER-youtube-video" classid="clsid:D27CDB6E-AE6D-11cf-96B8-444553540000" codebase="http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=6,0,40,0" data-thumbnail-src="http://i1.ytimg.com/vi/q6c7_APPXn8/0.jpg" height="320" width="480"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/q6c7_APPXn8?version=3&f=user_uploads&c=google-webdrive-0&app=youtube_gdata" /><param name="bgcolor" value="#FFFFFF" /><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true" /><embed width="480" height="320" src="http://www.youtube.com/v/q6c7_APPXn8?version=3&f=user_uploads&c=google-webdrive-0&app=youtube_gdata" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true"></embed></object></div>
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Start time! almost...</div>
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Yay, it works!</div>
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Sprocket is moving around too much, we'll have to take it apart.</div>
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Quick vid of the 2013 car starting. Sounds bad cause of the fuel maps. </div>
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Jordanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03951190922958142729noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5911939370761516849.post-45026398057923679512013-10-18T09:35:00.000-07:002014-01-27T10:23:10.714-08:00Modding the NERF 6 Barrel Strongarm (Barrel Drop / Swap Mod)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Here at college we have Humans vs Zombies where we use Nerf guns to hunt down zombies (i think there's an assassin game later in the year). People have been buying Nerf guns for the past few months and modding them for better performance (pretty sure Walmart loves it haha). I got the Strongarm and then another one a few weeks later for driving someone on some errands. That means I could then do the barrel swap mod which allows for easy swapping of 6 rounds without having to reload individual darts after every shots. </div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-McWZYQN3V3k/UmDd7-rH_GI/AAAAAAAAC0U/YuPrIrQfiYI/s1600/IMG_20131016_192938.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-McWZYQN3V3k/UmDd7-rH_GI/AAAAAAAAC0U/YuPrIrQfiYI/s400/IMG_20131016_192938.jpg" height="301" width="400" /></a></div>
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Here's an original Strongarm (notice the grey barrel supports). These are the main parts we'll be modding. Ok, stock except for the missing grip, haha.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hpIhONQ7h0c/UmDjG3L1MNI/AAAAAAAAC30/e3JZqLxx0gA/s1600/IMG_20131016_192931.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hpIhONQ7h0c/UmDjG3L1MNI/AAAAAAAAC30/e3JZqLxx0gA/s400/IMG_20131016_192931.jpg" height="193" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EeDd60S9WMo/UmDjGy2Z8SI/AAAAAAAAC34/u6o252Mzs1Q/s1600/IMG_20131016_193423.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EeDd60S9WMo/UmDjGy2Z8SI/AAAAAAAAC34/u6o252Mzs1Q/s400/IMG_20131016_193423.jpg" height="301" width="400" /></a></div>
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The red circles are all the screws you need to take out to pull the gun apart. </div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ejlaN-rbkXI/UmDlYZqM77I/AAAAAAAAC4I/x1Tb1okwNGs/s1600/IMG_20131016_193411.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ejlaN-rbkXI/UmDlYZqM77I/AAAAAAAAC4I/x1Tb1okwNGs/s400/IMG_20131016_193411.jpg" height="301" width="400" /></a></div>
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Slowly pry apart the halves and hold the orange piece doesn't spring out (red arrow in above picture).</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_pEvXbsNEqQ/UmFeIfgBvFI/AAAAAAAAC5M/KjRhIiKiOcM/s1600/IMG_20131018_022621.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_pEvXbsNEqQ/UmFeIfgBvFI/AAAAAAAAC5M/KjRhIiKiOcM/s400/IMG_20131018_022621.png" height="210" width="400" /></a></div>
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The rear barrel holder will be attached to the barrel, remove two screws (black arrows).</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-oMqx99uak7E/UmFeS84x3vI/AAAAAAAAC5Y/q7W4cm6rsM0/s1600/IMG_20131018_021330.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-oMqx99uak7E/UmFeS84x3vI/AAAAAAAAC5Y/q7W4cm6rsM0/s320/IMG_20131018_021330.jpg" height="237" width="320" /></a></div>
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One of these screwdrivers works great</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ECncaDeaMj0/UmFeH_bR83I/AAAAAAAAC5E/4_znGhD92CU/s1600/IMG_20131018_021221.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ECncaDeaMj0/UmFeH_bR83I/AAAAAAAAC5E/4_znGhD92CU/s320/IMG_20131018_021221.jpg" height="241" width="320" /></a></div>
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Pull on the halves (split line in blue). I found it easiest to to put my fingers in the dart holes and wiggle it.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VSZ6Lh7DpYw/UmFhTMIHLRI/AAAAAAAAC5g/AUiIMZ2-Heo/s1600/IMG_20131018_101833.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VSZ6Lh7DpYw/UmFhTMIHLRI/AAAAAAAAC5g/AUiIMZ2-Heo/s400/IMG_20131018_101833.jpg" height="301" width="400" /></a></div>
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Ta-da!</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-x_BqEgH9Aj0/UmFhTSp_zhI/AAAAAAAAC5o/pjKXCmdUx1I/s1600/IMG_20131018_101845.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-x_BqEgH9Aj0/UmFhTSp_zhI/AAAAAAAAC5o/pjKXCmdUx1I/s320/IMG_20131018_101845.jpg" height="241" width="320" /></a></div>
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One more screw should now be visible. Once undone, bottom holder will separate.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-itd9cLEdg6I/UmFeINiIiLI/AAAAAAAAC5A/biwoKHTR4X0/s1600/IMG_20131018_022931.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-itd9cLEdg6I/UmFeINiIiLI/AAAAAAAAC5A/biwoKHTR4X0/s320/IMG_20131018_022931.jpg" height="241" width="320" /></a></div>
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Put screw back with just the round orange part attached.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MQBvySpIwm0/UmFhTJZDgjI/AAAAAAAAC5k/0JASRH83dWw/s1600/IMG_20131018_102144.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MQBvySpIwm0/UmFhTJZDgjI/AAAAAAAAC5k/0JASRH83dWw/s320/IMG_20131018_102144.jpg" height="241" width="320" /></a></div>
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when you put the barrel together again make sure you have the circled green and blue holes matching. If you put them on 90deg off like i did you ll stare at it for a minute like WTF. </div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-M_0KzBKunXY/UmDpUEuUCvI/AAAAAAAAC4c/3g3dfR2R-I8/s1600/IMG_20131018_015316.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-M_0KzBKunXY/UmDpUEuUCvI/AAAAAAAAC4c/3g3dfR2R-I8/s400/IMG_20131018_015316.jpg" height="301" width="400" /></a></div>
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This shot shows how they fit after removing the barrel from the rear holder.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JKvh6s4qv0U/UmDom2m55bI/AAAAAAAAC4U/QYxjom4H6c0/s1600/IMG_20131018_014215.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JKvh6s4qv0U/UmDom2m55bI/AAAAAAAAC4U/QYxjom4H6c0/s320/IMG_20131018_014215.jpg" height="241" width="320" /></a></div>
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Cut on the black lines. Trim down the<span style="color: blue;"> blue circle</span> so that it is about flush with the rest of the piece.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Lszrh4PnQh0/UmDd_B9RxJI/AAAAAAAAC10/ih8fY0a9vEI/s1600/IMG_20131016_215647.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Lszrh4PnQh0/UmDd_B9RxJI/AAAAAAAAC10/ih8fY0a9vEI/s400/IMG_20131016_215647.jpg" height="301" width="400" /></a></div>
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Ta-da, I did all that with a 50 cent exacto and a pair of pliers. make sure everything is kinda curvy so the barrel slides better.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ktONj1terNY/UmDsM5kS__I/AAAAAAAAC4o/0WmQXBWgbYA/s1600/IMG_20131018_020033.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ktONj1terNY/UmDsM5kS__I/AAAAAAAAC4o/0WmQXBWgbYA/s400/IMG_20131018_020033.jpg" height="400" width="286" /></a></div>
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Put the front barrel holder piece back in its place and press the gun back together. Don't worry about the barrel, modified piece or the trigger piece. Pull the holder towards you so that it can go any further. then mark it with a sharpie where you want to trim the piece. If this is not done, the holder will not drop far enough and the barrel will not fit in on the side.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-faymdth40xo/UmDd_3pY_gI/AAAAAAAAC2Q/CH5Dc0egrQc/s1600/IMG_20131016_223845.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-faymdth40xo/UmDd_3pY_gI/AAAAAAAAC2Q/CH5Dc0egrQc/s400/IMG_20131016_223845.jpg" height="301" width="400" /></a></div>
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That's how mine looked after removing the material. </div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RNABY9PjTrQ/UmDd9jekRpI/AAAAAAAAC1I/o8jQu4y-enA/s1600/IMG_20131016_211705.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RNABY9PjTrQ/UmDd9jekRpI/AAAAAAAAC1I/o8jQu4y-enA/s400/IMG_20131016_211705.jpg" height="301" width="400" /></a></div>
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Just hold the case back together and you can check.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gKcsqMzJZDU/UmDd9HlnstI/AAAAAAAAC1A/UUoH266_S84/s1600/IMG_20131016_210431.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gKcsqMzJZDU/UmDd9HlnstI/AAAAAAAAC1A/UUoH266_S84/s400/IMG_20131016_210431.jpg" height="301" width="400" /></a></div>
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Preparing to put the other half of the case on. these things are chocked full of springs, so make sure everything is in place. That plastic piece (top right, red arrow from above) that is giving you trouble right now, no doubt, will have its own blog post.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-s6izRgXr9xM/UmDd-tOAavI/AAAAAAAAC1s/lgKXWl440Rc/s1600/IMG_20131016_211957.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-s6izRgXr9xM/UmDd-tOAavI/AAAAAAAAC1s/lgKXWl440Rc/s400/IMG_20131016_211957.jpg" height="301" width="400" /></a></div>
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Hold the case together (best to have someone else hold it?) and see if it will slide in and out correctly. Make adjustments as needed</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BP9HDHXyLQI/UmDd-J5vUmI/AAAAAAAAC1c/O4ds1ysO1vg/s1600/IMG_20131016_211818.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BP9HDHXyLQI/UmDd-J5vUmI/AAAAAAAAC1c/O4ds1ysO1vg/s400/IMG_20131016_211818.jpg" height="301" width="400" /></a></div>
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Another shot </div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Fbgai-XosEE/UmDd_noskCI/AAAAAAAAC2A/M1daMAZbBgs/s1600/IMG_20131016_223830.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Fbgai-XosEE/UmDd_noskCI/AAAAAAAAC2A/M1daMAZbBgs/s400/IMG_20131016_223830.jpg" height="301" width="400" /></a></div>
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Here I hot glued it just to the lower apart of the gun so that the modified piece stays in place.make sure it is flush when gluing. </div>
Jordanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03951190922958142729noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5911939370761516849.post-44447546599727718542013-10-17T10:07:00.000-07:002014-01-27T10:38:53.880-08:00Fixing "New XAMPP security concept" and "Port already in use" Errors With Apache Now that im at college and have a decent internet connection, I wanted to try some cloud style music access. And by "style" I mean running my own server from my desktop with all my media and accessing it from my school issued laptop so i don't have to carry around all the music. I first tried Orb which basically installs a program on your computer and creates a database of your media and when you use their website to remote access it their servers contact your computer and stream the media to the remote computer. There are two problems with this: Orb is shutting down soon because it was bought out and media stream was in shitty quality. I then started to look for open source options that dint require a man-in-the-middle server to stream the media (aka i wanted a direct pipeline). I found the perfect choice: <a href="http://ampache.org/wiki/">Ampache</a>. Its based off of Apache (a basic, but powerful web server) and MySQL. I liked all of its features except that you have to do some server tinkering and i have had little experience, but it was actually quite easy because Apache and MySQL have been put into an installer package called XAMPP which makes it really easy to setup. There are <a href="http://ampache.org/wiki/os_foundation">step by step instructions here.</a> Quick note: when installing XAMPP you only need Apache and MySQL for Ampache to work.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HIyUhbUGc9k/UuangwGv_xI/AAAAAAAADIk/cG-5s-61UuM/s1600/Ampache-5778.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HIyUhbUGc9k/UuangwGv_xI/AAAAAAAADIk/cG-5s-61UuM/s1600/Ampache-5778.png" height="153" width="640" /></a></div>
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<h3>
New XAMPP security concept</h3>
Anyways, on to the issues. When you have the install all done you can easily access it from localhost:80 in your web browser, but opening the ports (80, 443, and 3306 as seen in XAMPP control panel) and trying your_external_ip_address:80 will throw an error about a <i>"New XAMPP security concept"</i> that only LAN has access. to fix this you have do the following<br />
1. Go to the <i>XAMPP Control Panel</i><br />
2. Click <i>Config </i>next to Apache and select <i>Apache (httpd-xampp.conf)</i><br />
3. Look for the following heading:<br />
<br />
<div class="code">
# New XAMPP security concept</div>
<br />
4. Underneath you'll see something like the following:<br />
<div class="code">
<LocationMatch "^/(?i:(?:xampp|security|licenses|phpmyadmin|webalizer|server-status|server-info))"><br />
<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Order deny,allow<br />
<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Deny from all<br />
<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Allow from ::1 127.0.0.0/8 \<br />
<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>fc00::/7 10.0.0.0/8 172.16.0.0/12 192.168.0.0/16 \<br />
<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>fe80::/10 169.254.0.0/16<br />
<br />
<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>ErrorDocument 403 /error/XAMPP_FORBIDDEN.html.var<br />
</LocationMatch></div>
<br />
5. Change it to this (where <i>YOUR_EXTERNAL_IP_ADDRESS</i> is something like xx.xx.xxx.xxx):<br />
<div class="code">
<LocationMatch "^/(?i:(?:xampp|security|licenses|phpmyadmin|webalizer|server-status|server-info))"><br />
<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Order deny,allow<br />
<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Deny from all<br />
<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Allow from ::1 127.0.0.0/8 \<br />
<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>fc00::/7 10.0.0.0/8 172.16.0.0/12 192.168.0.0/16 <i>YOUR_EXTERNAL_IP_ADDRESS</i>/8 \<br />
<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>fe80::/10 169.254.0.0/16<br />
<br />
<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>ErrorDocument 403 /error/XAMPP_FORBIDDEN.html.var<br />
</LocationMatch></div>
<br />
6. That allows you to connect via your browser anywhere in the world using YOUR_EXTERNAL_IP_ADDRESS:80 Also, if you get sent to the XAMPP panel when you go to <br />
<div class="code">
YOUR_EXTERNAL_IP_ADDRESS:80</div>
just use this instead:<br />
<div class="code">
YOUR_EXTERNAL_IP_ADDRESS:80/ampache</div>
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<br />
<h3>
Port In Use</h3>
I figured I might as well put another issue I had with the install in this post too: "Port already in use". That is referring to the second port Apache uses and when you click Start under Apache it'll say error port xxx already in use. This is because Skype and Apache both use port 443 and if you start Skype first, Apache wont work and vise versa. If this is gonna be a more professionally used server it might be better to keep Apache ports to 80 and 443 <a href="http://myblogit.net/2007/06/24/skype-and-xampp-working-together-in-harmony/">and change Skype's port </a>just so people looking at your server setup are like WTF haha. Anyways... I chose to change Apaches ports to 81 and 442 respectively.<br />
1. Go to the XAMPP Control Panel<br />
2. Select Config, hhtpd.conf next to Apache<br />
3. Replace all the <b><i>"80"</i></b>'s with <b><i>"81"</i></b>'s. Instances are<br />
<div class="code">
Listen 80<br />
ServerName localhost:80</div>
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4. Go back to the Control Panel and select Config>httpd-ssl.conf<br />
5. Replace all the <b>"443"</b>'s with <b>"442"</b>'s. Instances are<br />
<div class="code">
Listen 443<br />
<VirtualHost _default_:443><br />
ServerName www.example.com:443</div>
<br />
6. Restart your server and there you have your server on different ports. But now when accessing you must type localhost:81, 127.0.0.1:81, or external_ip:81 for example otherwise you wont be able to connect.Jordanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03951190922958142729noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5911939370761516849.post-88173576406295712262013-10-01T20:09:00.002-07:002014-01-28T21:37:15.777-08:00Using an Tiva-C Launchpad With Energia (Ardunio IDE for ARM)If your'e a daily Hackaday reader you should've seen<a href="http://hackaday.com/2013/09/18/25-coupon-code-for-texas-instruments-store/"> this post</a> a week or so ago. It links to <a href="http://forum.stellarisiti.com/topic/1568-free-ti-launchpad-hurry/">this ARM forum topic</a>: some guy found a 25$ multi-use coupon and shared it with the community. He and many others bought two tiva-c launchpads for a total of .98$ with the coupon (you can buy anything ya wanted but might as well get some MCUs). I was lucky enough to catch this before the coupon was discontinued and got my two launchpads and then went and searched on how to use them There is of course the official TI C/C++ compilers or programs, but i wanted to go with something I already knew: Arduino. I remembered the <a href="http://energia.nu/">Energia project</a> from a while back that does exactly what I wanted: it uses the familiar Arduino "Wired" code and a similar IDE.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lNSJI4Qa_Rc/UuasRSxRvnI/AAAAAAAADI4/ASo1whtlWP0/s1600/launchpad-tivac-01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lNSJI4Qa_Rc/UuasRSxRvnI/AAAAAAAADI4/ASo1whtlWP0/s1600/launchpad-tivac-01.jpg" height="292" width="400" /></a></div>
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1. Download the latest <a href="http://energia.nu/">Energia</a> program <a href="http://energia.nu/download/">from here</a> and install.<br />
2. Get the Stellaris ICDI drivers <a href="http://www.ti.com/tool/stellaris_icdi_drivers">from TI here</a> and extract them somewhere.<br />
3. Get your Tiva-C and hold it so that the text at the bottom right side up.<br />
4. Flip the switch at the top left of the bored to the right.<br />
5. Plug in the micro usb cable into the connector on the top of the bored (left side one is for usb devices etc)<br />
6. Windows will, of course, not find drivers; search for Device Manager in the start menu<br />
7. Look for Unidentified ICDI device with a yellow exclamation point next to it.<br />
8. Right click, Update Driver, click Search from my computer and browse for the folder from step 2<br />
9. Repeat steps 7 and 8 until all unidentified ICDI devices are gone. You should also see a Stellaris Virtual Serial Port show up at some point.<br />
10. Open Energia. Go to Tools>Boards> LaunchPad (Tiva C) w/ tm4c123 (80mhz)<br />
11. Go to Tools>Serial Port and select the one of your Tiva-C.<br />
12. Open the Blink Example in File>Examples>Basic>Blink<br />
13. In the new window, press the right arrow button that is next to the check mark. The black console window should say SUCCESS! in a few seconds and only the red LED of the RGB LED on the bored should blink<br />
14. Now, go make some awesome programs that can use 80mhz. Yea!!! I must also note that not everything is supported, for example, Energia does not yet allow us to make it a HID device and emulate mouses or keyboards over it's device USB port (one on the left side)<br />
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<br />
Note: Im not sure what you Linux / Mac guys will use for drivers. Not sure if TI provides ICDI in those OS's. I know Energia does, but those drivers didnt work on my Tiva-<br />
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Note or step 11: An easy way to do this is to unplug your Tiva-C, close Energia, reopen it and see what ports are there. Then close it, plug in your Tiva-C, reopen Energia and see what new port is there: thats the one you want.<br />
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Note: but a bit of tape over that RGB LED: it is very bright and annoying if you're trying to program.Jordanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03951190922958142729noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5911939370761516849.post-67462829567498901182013-07-14T11:32:00.002-07:002014-01-27T11:04:08.022-08:00My Custom Android 2.2.2 Froyo Rom for LG Apex (US740)In this post, i'll be writing about my adventures in creating a custom rom for a LG Apex (US740) on Froyo version 2.2.2. :)<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-791bmHzKES8/UaL1_zSn2GI/AAAAAAAACrk/tLN24In3--M/s1600/Untitled.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-791bmHzKES8/UaL1_zSn2GI/AAAAAAAACrk/tLN24In3--M/s640/Untitled.png" height="231" width="400" /></a></div>
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1. Root your device. My version here: <a href="http://dduino.blogspot.com/2013/05/how-to-root-any-android-with-froyo-20.html">How to Root Any Android with Froyo (2.0)</a></div>
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2. Take a rom dump of your firmware in its latest updated clean restored form you dont want your applications taking up space while your modifying it. this is so you always have a good ol' stock firmware to go back to if you mess anything up. Guide here: <a href="http://dduino.blogspot.com/2013/05/how-to-easily-dump-your-androids-rom.html">How to EASILY Dump your Android's Rom!</a><br />
<br />
3. Deox your rom and then dump it again. <a href="http://www.redmondpie.com/odexed-vs-deodexed-the-difference-between-the-two-android-roms-explained/">What does De-Oxed mean?</a><br />
<b><i><span style="font-size: large;">A.</span></i></b> Install busybox to your phone to allow the deox commands to work.<br />
1. Download <a href="http://www.mediafire.com/download/nw2uhakwua5l14n/busybox-1.17.2-android.zip">busybox-1.17.2-android.zip</a> to your computer. Also grab the <a href="https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/28052258/ADB.zip">ADB.zip</a> download.<br />
2. If you haven't already, create a folder like <i style="font-weight: bold;">Android </i>and extract the ADB zip to it (orginization! :))<br />
3. Extract the <i style="font-weight: bold;">busybox </i>file from the busybox-1.17.2-android.zip to the ADB folder.<br />
4. Plug in your phone to your computer and install it's drivers from the manufacture.<br />
4. Go to the ADB folder, press <i style="font-weight: bold;">shift </i>and in the white space of the window, <i style="font-weight: bold;">right click </i>and click<i style="font-weight: bold;"> open command prompt here</i>.<br />
<i style="font-weight: bold;"> </i>5. Type these commands: <br />
<div class="code">
adb push busybox /data/local/busybox<br />
adb shell<br />
su<br />
cd /data/local<br />
chmod 755 busybox<br />
./busybox<br />
mount -o remount,rw -t yaffs2 /dev/block/mtdblock4 /system<br />
mkdir /system/xbin<br />
/data/local/busybox cp /data/local/busybox /system/xbin<br />
/data/local/busybox cp /data/local/busybox /system/bin<br />
cd /system/xbin<br />
busybox --install .<br />
mount -o ro,remount -t yaffs2 /dev/block/mtdblock4 /system<br />
sync<br />
reboot</div>
<br />
<b><i><span style="font-size: large;">B.</span></i></b> Deox Time!<br />
1. Plug in your phone, set USB Debug, and make sure you have you phone's drivers installed on your computer.<br />
2. Download the latest xUltimate, or if that doesn't work (unhandled exception error when you try deox), check that you have Java and it's Environment path is set. if that still doesnt work, grab a older version of xUltimate that was released for your phone's firmware version. For example, the latest <a href="https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/28052258/xUltimate-v2.4.zip">2.4</a> didn't work, so i got <a href="https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/28052258/xUltimate-v2.2.2.zip">2.2.2</a>, which supports froyo and older.<br />
3. Extract xUltimate and run Main.exe. Ignore the update prompt: type <i style="font-weight: bold;">n </i>and then press enter.<br />
4. If it connects ok, you should now have a prompt with numbers. Type <i style="font-weight: bold;">5 </i>and press enter. Will do most of the process automatically.<br />
5. When done, disable USB debug, and enable USB storage.<br />
6. Copy <i style="font-weight: bold;">done_app </i>and <i style="font-weight: bold;">done_frame </i>from the xUltimate folder to the root of your device's SD card<br />
7. Switch back to <i style="font-weight: bold;">USB debug </i>mode and open CMD from the ADB directory again.<br />
8. Type the following code:<br />
<div class="code">
adb shell<br />
su<br />
stop<br />
mount -o rw,remount /system/ /system/<br />
cp /sdcard/done_app/* /system/app/<br />
rm /system/app/*.odex<br />
cp /sdcard/done_frame/* /system/framework/<br />
rm /system/framework/*.odex<br />
mount -o ro,remount /system/ /system/<br />
reboot</div>
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<b><i><span style="font-size: large;"> C.</span></i></b> Re-dump your firmware that is now deoxed<br />
1. <a href="http://dduino.blogspot.com/2013/05/how-to-easily-dump-your-androids-rom.html">How to EASILY Dump your Android's Rom!</a><br />
<br />
4. Modify the rom<br />
A. Create a custom clockwork recover rom from the deoxed device dump: <a href="http://builder.clockworkmod.com/">Recovery Builder</a><br />
B.<br />
<br />
<i>In progress... </i>Jordanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03951190922958142729noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5911939370761516849.post-89566987445626278852013-07-14T11:31:00.001-07:002013-07-14T11:31:33.373-07:00This is What I Do When I'm Bored at Work<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Yes, that's right, schemes drawn on Home Depot receipts.</div>
Jordanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03951190922958142729noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5911939370761516849.post-52787586015866024132013-05-25T22:20:00.000-07:002014-01-27T11:07:02.197-08:00How to EASILY Dump your Android's Rom!Well, I guess that is relative. There is no one click method for this, however, this the easiest i've found.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JxDQgDU6vLw/UaGbZQZ1UWI/AAAAAAAACrU/xzYnJd3kLI8/s1600/Google-Android7-348x196.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JxDQgDU6vLw/UaGbZQZ1UWI/AAAAAAAACrU/xzYnJd3kLI8/s1600/Google-Android7-348x196.jpg" /></a></div>
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1. Root your device (<a href="http://dduino.blogspot.com/2013/05/how-to-root-any-android-with-froyo-20.html">Froyo firmware guide here</a>). this is quite simple for any Android. Search Google for: <i style="font-weight: bold;"><Android Version> root. </i>Roots can be device specific, so check that too. <b><i><Phone name></i></b> <i style="font-weight: bold;"><Android Version> root ?</i><i style="font-weight: bold;"> </i>Look at that link for how to find the version. Most times it will involve downloading and app on your phone, or doing it from a computer.<br />
2. Go to the <i style="font-weight: bold;">Market </i>app on your device, search for <i style="font-weight: bold;">Terminal</i>, tap the first result, and install it.<br />
3. Go to the <i style="font-weight: bold;">Browser </i> app and download <a href="https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/28052258/romdump" style="font-style: italic; font-weight: bold;">romdump</a>. Nothing to install, so next step<br />
4. Open the <i style="font-weight: bold;">Terminal</i> app you installed in step 2.<br />
5. Type: <i style="font-weight: bold;">su </i>It should give you no errors and go to another # on the next line. Rooting allows you type <i style="font-weight: bold;">su</i> which gives you permissions to do stuff in the system.<br />
6. Type <i style="font-weight: bold;">cp /sdcard/download/romdump /data/local </i>(<b>NOTE </b>space between ...<i style="font-weight: bold;">romdump</i><b><i></i></b> and <b style="font-style: italic;">/data</b>...)<br />
7. Type <i style="font-weight: bold;">/data/local/romdump </i>This will run the dumping program. It will give output like: <br />
<div class="code">
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222225; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">Dumping kernel config... </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222225; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">done.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222225; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">Dumping boot partition... done.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222225; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">Dumping recovery partition... done.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222225; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">Dumping system partition... done.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222225; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">Creating Checksums... done.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222225; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">Cleaning up... done.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222225; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">All done.</span></div>
<br />
7. Disable <i style="font-weight: bold;">USB debugging </i>by going to <b><i>Settings app</i></b>, <b><i>Applications</i></b>, <b><i>Development</i></b>, and un-checking <b><i>USB Debugging</i></b>.<br />
8. Plug in your device to your computer with the (most likely) micro-USB port somewhere on the device.<br />
9. With <i style="font-weight: bold;">USB debugging </i><i><b>disabled</b></i>, the device should now prompt you to enable <i style="font-weight: bold;">USB storage </i>when plugged in to your computer. Tap enable. Your computer should make the "new device sound" and a new storage device will show up just like a flash drive.<br />
10. On your computer, go to the new storage icon the pops up on your desktop or in the Computer folder, etc. Make sure the <i style="font-weight: bold;">romdump </i>folder has the files in it and then copy it to your computer.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><b><i>You now have the roms of your Android device, Happy Hacking!</i></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b><i><br /></i></b></span></div>
Jordanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03951190922958142729noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5911939370761516849.post-63435547902256698472013-05-25T21:43:00.002-07:002014-01-27T11:09:02.461-08:00How to Root Any Android with Froyo (2.0)The goal of this post is to show you how to root an Android device that runs the Froyo firmware, aka v2.0. I found a LG Apex in the electronics recycling (pretty rare to find an android) and of course wanted to tinker with it. Just like with any other new project, you need to read as much as possible so you dont screw anything up. Rooting is actually quite simple: people have made programs that do it for you (just a few clicks).<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XcwqvHB8x5I/UaGS0wdnkDI/AAAAAAAACrE/CG2NZJS--Rk/s1600/Android-Rooted.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XcwqvHB8x5I/UaGS0wdnkDI/AAAAAAAACrE/CG2NZJS--Rk/s320/Android-Rooted.jpg" height="320" width="286" /></a></div>
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<a name='more'></a><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>What version do you have?</b></span><br />
1. Tap the <b><i>Grid Icon</i></b> at the bottom of your homescreen to show all your apps<br />
2. Scroll to the bottom and find <b><i>Settings</i></b><br />
3. Scroll to the end again and tap <b><i>About phone</i></b><br />
4. Scroll down till you see <i style="font-weight: bold;">Android version </i>in the list.<br />
5. Directly underneath this heading there is a number. For example 2.2.2, or 2.1-update1<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Rooting</b></span><br />
<h3>
2.2.2</h3>
1. On your Android Browser app, go to this link:<b><i> <a href="http://www.itsmytechworld.com/uploaded-files/GingerBreak-v1.20.apk?attredirects=0&d=1">GingerBreak-v1.2.0.apk</a></i></b>. If Chrome or your Anti-virus warns you about a virus, IT IS NOT! It's because of its rooting capabilities that is seen as one!<br />
2. Go to Settings again like above<br />
3. Then go to <i style="font-weight: bold;">Applications </i>and check <b><i>Unknown Sources</i></b><br />
4. Scroll down to and tap on <i style="font-weight: bold;">Development </i>and check <b><i>USB debugging</i></b><br />
5. Go to your Browser's <i style="font-weight: bold;">Downloads </i>and click click on<b><i> GingerBreak-v1.2.0.apk</i></b><br />
6. Tap <i style="font-weight: bold;">Install</i>, and accept all the warnings.<br />
7. When done, click <b><i>Open.</i></b><br />
8. This is the actual rooting app. Make sure you have a SD card in your device!<br />
9. Under Options tap <i style="font-weight: bold;">Root device</i>. When done, it will restart your phone.<br />
10. To check that it worked, go to the <b><i>App Grid Icon</i></b> from your home screen and look for a Superuser app. If it is there, then you have just rooted your device!<br />
<h3>
2.1-update1 or lower</h3>
<div>
1. On your Android Browser app, go to this link:<b><i> <a href="https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/28052258/z4root%201.3.1.apk">z4root-1.3.1.apk</a></i></b>. If Chrome or your Anti-virus warns you about a virus, IT IS NOT! It's because of its rooting capabilities that is seen as one!<br />
2. Go to Settings again like above<br />
3. Then go to <i style="font-weight: bold;">Applications </i>and check <b><i>Unknown Sources</i></b><br />
4. Scroll down to and tap on <i style="font-weight: bold;">Development </i>and check <b><i>USB debugging</i></b><br />
5. Go to your Browser's <i style="font-weight: bold;">Downloads </i>and click click on<b><i> z4root-1.3.1.apk</i></b><br />
6. Tap <i style="font-weight: bold;">Install</i>, and accept all the warnings.<br />
7. When done, click <b><i>Open.</i></b><br />
8. This is the actual rooting app. Tap <i><b>Permanent Root</b></i>. When done, it will restart your phone.<br />
10. To check that it worked, go to the <b><i>App Grid Icon</i></b> from your home screen and look for a Superuser app. If it is there, then you have just rooted your device!</div>
<br />
Next, i'll grab the system files from the android and make a custom rom (aka edit the system).Jordanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03951190922958142729noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5911939370761516849.post-5614957335026315872013-05-06T09:04:00.000-07:002013-05-06T09:04:20.966-07:00Some Management StuffI have made a few changes and am thinking about a few others. I changed the templates to something a little easier to read and see hyperlinks in text. I also found some new code box html code. Do you like the new stuff? Should I do page breaks in longer posts (lots of scrolling)?<br />
<br />
That is if anyone cares :)Jordanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03951190922958142729noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5911939370761516849.post-42932393455434122152013-05-04T08:03:00.000-07:002014-01-27T11:12:01.858-08:00R/C Themed Car Media Controls The goal of this project is to interface some sort of media player with my radio with media controls easily accessible. After washing my ipod and the cellphone battery not fixing it (soemthing was drawing excessive current and killing the battery within a day of not being used (a new ipod battery didn't fix it either). So i set off with another idea: use my netbook.<br />
<br />
Why?<br />
-has my entire music collection<br />
-can be interfaced with an arduino through processing.<br />
-arduino will handle all the control interface reading.<br />
-runs linux which is awesome<br />
-Amarok media player<br />
-small<br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<h3>
Overview</h3>
I first had to come up with what controls to use with the arduino. As you might have noticed from my recent posts, i'm pretty obsessed with RC. The first RC that i got was a Firebird II ST and had only throttle and roll: aka totally shit. Long story short, i was flying it in a circle and went out of sight (couldn't turn tight enough) and crashed somewhere: never found it. I gutted it's control sticks for my media interface. pretty nerdy. Throttle is used as volume, and the roll stick is used for changing tracks). The arduino reads the analog values and sends them to processing which sets the volume /play/pause/track skip.<br />
<br />
<h3>
The Build</h3>
<h4>
Arduino</h4>
First thing i had to do was check out the pots and see how they would behave on the arduino. i wrote a little arduino program below that will find the current value, the min value, and the max value of the pot. so if you move the to from one extreme to the other, it will show what the min and max was. One pot was acting weird o i replaced it with a common 5k. both original pots had weird analog read values that weren't 0 to 1023 (0v to 5v) like usual, so that was the biggest reason for this code.<br />
<div class="code">
<br />
#define analogPin A5<br />
<br />
int potVal , potValMin , potValMax = 400;<br />
<br />
void setup() {<br />
Serial.begin(115200);<br />
}<br />
<br />
void loop() {<br />
// read the analog in value:<br />
potVal = analogRead(analogPin); <br />
<br />
//Get the senor range value automatically<br />
if(potVal > potValMax) //if current value is greater than the<br />
{ //previously known max, set max to current<br />
potValMax = potVal;<br />
}<br />
else if(potVal < potValMin) //if current value is less than the<br />
{ //previously known min, set min to current<br />
potValMin = potVal;<br />
}<br />
<br />
Serial.print(potVal); //print raw val<br />
Serial.print(" ");<br />
Serial.print(potValMin); //print min<br />
Serial.print(" ");<br />
Serial.println(potValMin); // print max<br />
<br />
//delay so its easier to read<br />
delay(5); <br />
}</div>
<br />
Now that i had the ranges of the pots, i could start the actual interfacing. The arduino code:<br />
1. reads the pots and button<br />
2. maps the values to a useful range<br />
3. sends them in a comma seperated string out the serial port<br />
<br />
<div class="code">
<br />
/////////////////////////POT CONFIG//////////////////////////<br />
#define volInPin A5<br />
#define nxtInPin A4<br />
////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////<br />
<br />
//////////////////////////BTN STUFF////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////<br />
#define buttonPin 3<br />
<br />
boolean currentState; // the current reading from the input pin<br />
boolean previousState; // the previous reading from the input pin<br />
<br />
// the follow variables are long's because the time, measured in miliseconds,<br />
// will quickly become a bigger number than can be stored in an int.<br />
long time = 0; // the last time the output pin was toggled<br />
long debounce = 200; // the debounce time, increase if the output flickers<br />
///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////<br />
<br />
long volVal;<br />
int nxtVal;<br />
int btnVal;<br />
<br />
void setup()<br />
{<br />
Serial.begin(115200);<br />
<br />
pinMode(buttonPin, INPUT); //set button to an input.<br />
previousState = digitalRead(buttonPin);<br />
<br />
//initiallize default ppm values<br />
volVal = 16384; // or quarter volume<br />
nxtVal = 50; //centerd, 50<br />
btnVal = 0; //0, no mute<br />
}<br />
<br />
void loop() {<br />
delay(5);//better values.<br />
// read the analog in value:<br />
volVal = analogRead(volInPin); <br />
<br />
delay(5);//better values.<br />
// read the analog in value:<br />
nxtVal = analogRead(nxtInPin); <br />
<br />
CheckPPButton(); //check the play/pause button;)<br />
<br />
//raw values pot val. uncomment these lines to see these values<br />
/*<br />
Serial.print(volVal);<br />
Serial.print(",");<br />
Serial.print(nxtVal);<br />
Serial.print(",");<br />
*/<br />
<br />
volVal = map(volVal,450,720,0,65536); //vol<br />
nxtVal = map(nxtVal,640,1023,0,100); //nxt<br />
<br />
//mapped pot values . uncomment these lines to see these values<br />
/*<br />
Serial.print(" "); <br />
Serial.print(volVal);<br />
Serial.print(","); <br />
Serial.println(nxtVal); <br />
*/<br />
<br />
SerialWrite(); //makes serial string and sends it at the end of each loop.<br />
}<br />
<br />
void SerialWrite()<br />
{<br />
while (!Serial.available()); // wait for processing to say something<br />
if(Serial.read() == 100) // check if we need to send data if processing sends "100"<br />
{<br />
//volume level, skip track, mute<br />
Serial.print(volVal); Serial.print(","); Serial.print(nxtVal); Serial.print(","); Serial.println(btnVal);<br />
}<br />
}<br />
<br />
void CheckPPButton()<br />
{<br />
currentState = digitalRead(buttonPin); //get current state<br />
<br />
//if has passed debounce time and the is different<br />
if (((millis() - time) > debounce) && (currentState != previousState))<br />
{<br />
if(currentState == false)<br />
{<br />
btnVal = 0; //Playing<br />
}<br />
else // = high, closed to 5v<br />
{<br />
btnVal = 1; //Paused<br />
}<br />
<br />
previousState = currentState;<br />
<br />
time = millis(); <br />
}<br />
}</div>
<br />
<h4>
Processing</h4>
Now for the processing side which:<br />
1. Reads the serial data
<br />
2. Runs the script to change volume and the mute status<br />
3. checks the Skip track pot value to see if it needs to change the Amarok track<br />
<br />
<div class="code">
<br />
import processing.serial.*;<br />
Serial port; // The serial port object<br />
<br />
byte needData 100; //sent when data done procssing.<br />
<br />
boolean gotData = false;<br />
<br />
long volVal;<br />
int nxtVal;<br />
int btnVal;<br />
<br />
void setup()<br />
{<br />
size(300, 200);<br />
// In case you want to see the list of available ports<br />
// println(Serial.list());<br />
<br />
// Using the first available port (might be different on your computer)<br />
port = new Serial(this, Serial.list()[0], 115200);<br />
// Request values right off the bat<br />
port.write(needData); //need data...<br />
}<br />
<br />
void draw()<br />
{<br />
if (gotData)<br />
{<br />
exec("ChngVol.sh", "volVal", "btnVal"); //runs the volume / mute script. this needs to be in /usr/bin<br />
<br />
gotData = false;<br />
// When finished ask for values again<br />
port.write(needData);<br />
}<br />
background(0);<br />
}// Called whenever there is something available to read<br />
<br />
<br />
void serialEvent(Serial port) {<br />
// Data from the Serial port is read in serialEvent() using the readStringUntil() function with * as the end character.<br />
String input = port.readStringUntil(',');<br />
<br />
if (input != null) {<br />
// Print message received<br />
println( "Receiving:" + input);<br />
<br />
// The data is split into an array of Strings with a comma or asterisk as a delimiter and converted into an array of integers.<br />
long[] vals = int(splitTokens(input, ","));<br />
<br />
// Fill variables<br />
volVal = vals[0];<br />
nxtVal = (int)vals[1];<br />
btnVal = (int)vals[2];<br />
<br />
gotData = true; //now the main loop will do stuff<br />
}<br />
}<br />
<div>
<br />
This project is not yet complete, and may never be as by brother gave me his old 1g iPod Touch because his girlfriends brother gave him his because he got a new iPhone. phew.</div>
</div>
Jordanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03951190922958142729noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5911939370761516849.post-40227337819817713592013-05-03T20:57:00.001-07:002014-01-27T11:17:41.434-08:00Replace A-Arm and Steering Assembly on 1/16th scale 25A SCT RC from HobbyKing.First off NEVER EVER drive these RCs without the body unless your are on some flat, huge surface. Hitting something will most likely break off the A-arms without the body protection. Long story short, I broke one and finally did this repair after the ~9.00$ of parts came in. I got all of these parts to be less than the first tier ~100g package, so shipping was only ~2.00$ :D.<br />
<br />
<table style="color: #333333; font-family: Verdana, Arial, helvetica; font-size: 11px; width: 550px;"><tbody>
<tr><td colspan="3" style="font-size: 8pt;"><table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" style="width: 549px;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="border-bottom-color: rgb(204, 204, 204); border-bottom-style: dotted; border-bottom-width: 1px; color: #333333; font-size: 8pt;"><a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=14240" style="color: #5490d2; font-size: 12px;">Dogbone 2 pcs - 118B, A2023T and A2035</a></td><td align="center" style="border-bottom-color: rgb(204, 204, 204); border-bottom-style: dotted; border-bottom-width: 1px; color: #333333; font-size: 8pt;">1</td><td style="border-bottom-color: rgb(204, 204, 204); border-bottom-style: dotted; border-bottom-width: 1px; color: #333333; font-size: 8pt;">IN STOCK</td><td style="border-bottom-color: rgb(204, 204, 204); border-bottom-style: dotted; border-bottom-width: 1px; color: #333333; font-size: 8pt;"></td></tr>
<tr><td style="border-bottom-color: rgb(204, 204, 204); border-bottom-style: dotted; border-bottom-width: 1px; color: #333333; font-size: 8pt;"><a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=14238" style="color: #5490d2; font-size: 12px;">Front Shock Complete 2 pcs - 118B, A2023T and A2035</a></td><td align="center" style="border-bottom-color: rgb(204, 204, 204); border-bottom-style: dotted; border-bottom-width: 1px; color: #333333; font-size: 8pt;">1</td><td style="border-bottom-color: rgb(204, 204, 204); border-bottom-style: dotted; border-bottom-width: 1px; color: #333333; font-size: 8pt;">IN STOCK</td><td style="border-bottom-color: rgb(204, 204, 204); border-bottom-style: dotted; border-bottom-width: 1px; color: #333333; font-size: 8pt;"></td></tr>
<tr><td style="border-bottom-color: rgb(204, 204, 204); border-bottom-style: dotted; border-bottom-width: 1px; color: #333333; font-size: 8pt;"><a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=14218" style="color: #5490d2; font-size: 12px;">Front Susp.arm - L/R 2 pcs - 118B, A2023T and A2035</a></td><td align="center" style="border-bottom-color: rgb(204, 204, 204); border-bottom-style: dotted; border-bottom-width: 1px; color: #333333; font-size: 8pt;">1</td><td style="border-bottom-color: rgb(204, 204, 204); border-bottom-style: dotted; border-bottom-width: 1px; color: #333333; font-size: 8pt;">IN STOCK</td><td style="border-bottom-color: rgb(204, 204, 204); border-bottom-style: dotted; border-bottom-width: 1px; color: #333333; font-size: 8pt;"></td></tr>
<tr><td style="border-bottom-color: rgb(204, 204, 204); border-bottom-style: dotted; border-bottom-width: 1px; color: #333333; font-size: 8pt;"><a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=14263" style="color: #5490d2; font-size: 12px;">Steering Drag Link 1pc - 118B, A2023T and A2035</a></td><td align="center" style="border-bottom-color: rgb(204, 204, 204); border-bottom-style: dotted; border-bottom-width: 1px; color: #333333; font-size: 8pt;">1</td><td style="border-bottom-color: rgb(204, 204, 204); border-bottom-style: dotted; border-bottom-width: 1px; color: #333333; font-size: 8pt;">IN STOCK</td><td style="border-bottom-color: rgb(204, 204, 204); border-bottom-style: dotted; border-bottom-width: 1px; color: #333333; font-size: 8pt;"></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MT5UDL15fsg/UYSC3S-32JI/AAAAAAAACXQ/mz6a43yTbT0/s1600/WP_000316.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MT5UDL15fsg/UYSC3S-32JI/AAAAAAAACXQ/mz6a43yTbT0/s400/WP_000316.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
The parts.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<a name='more'></a><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MYUiuMu16QU/UYSCPGiT3jI/AAAAAAAACVw/soqM93uuY3E/s1600/WP_000317.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MYUiuMu16QU/UYSCPGiT3jI/AAAAAAAACVw/soqM93uuY3E/s400/WP_000317.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Uh oh, wheres the other wheel, lol.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PHtjeG1P5aM/UYSDj4pv-XI/AAAAAAAACXY/exaGMdPj5sE/s1600/WP_000319.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PHtjeG1P5aM/UYSDj4pv-XI/AAAAAAAACXY/exaGMdPj5sE/s400/WP_000319.jpg" height="298" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Here are all of the screws you need to fix the steering. If the A-arm is the only thing broken, you dont ahve to take these out.</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cUjXhEVPy28/UYSDmN-TipI/AAAAAAAACXg/p55Y9S-sPf4/s1600/WP_000320.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cUjXhEVPy28/UYSDmN-TipI/AAAAAAAACXg/p55Y9S-sPf4/s400/WP_000320.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Better view.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HUG7fUY13Yw/UYSCRLRuSHI/AAAAAAAACV4/hLmvDXJMl_0/s1600/WP_000324.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HUG7fUY13Yw/UYSCRLRuSHI/AAAAAAAACV4/hLmvDXJMl_0/s400/WP_000324.jpg" height="281" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
You don't have to take out the center four, I just did to clean it a bit. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uOGeBmq5yUs/UYSCbZKGsTI/AAAAAAAACWg/yCBxvk7KZFc/s1600/WP_000329.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uOGeBmq5yUs/UYSCbZKGsTI/AAAAAAAACWg/yCBxvk7KZFc/s400/WP_000329.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
From the other side.</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_mbtoGLYPRg/UYSCUapn7FI/AAAAAAAACWI/2AUm4F9JM_Y/s1600/WP_000326.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_mbtoGLYPRg/UYSCUapn7FI/AAAAAAAACWI/2AUm4F9JM_Y/s400/WP_000326.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Once those screws are out, you can pull off the front bumper and pull off the old A-arm.</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SsoyS7R0sXk/UYSCW-0F04I/AAAAAAAACWQ/wvSxK-VCaQI/s1600/WP_000327.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SsoyS7R0sXk/UYSCW-0F04I/AAAAAAAACWQ/wvSxK-VCaQI/s400/WP_000327.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Put the new one on and make sure its in the right orientation and L or R.</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ihny0kjdWOw/UYSCZzOJ4EI/AAAAAAAACWY/OnXtqV0S-h4/s1600/WP_000328.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ihny0kjdWOw/UYSCZzOJ4EI/AAAAAAAACWY/OnXtqV0S-h4/s400/WP_000328.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Cleaning time! Check the servo saver while you're here too. </div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hjoR8t-g4RQ/UYSCb7t9VHI/AAAAAAAACWo/e5nD8HWl6tw/s1600/WP_000330.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hjoR8t-g4RQ/UYSCb7t9VHI/AAAAAAAACWo/e5nD8HWl6tw/s400/WP_000330.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Time to swap over the old A-arm parts to the new A-arm. For some reason when I put it back, the steering was getting caught on something. I added seem spacers on that front to back brace and it cleared fine.</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-u4PugrwHlLA/UYSFce5pzvI/AAAAAAAACXs/djmLVPSmEFc/s1600/WP_000331.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-u4PugrwHlLA/UYSFce5pzvI/AAAAAAAACXs/djmLVPSmEFc/s400/WP_000331.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
There is a E-clip that holds the c-block to the A-arm: to get this off, use some fine tipped pliers (blue arrow).</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
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I put on the dog-bones, new springs, and put the wheel back on etc. I put the ESC back together and did some waterproofing with hot glue :P.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OqjPa8XZA9s/UYSCgk1iI8I/AAAAAAAACXA/Pu_STrq-NVw/s1600/WP_000333.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OqjPa8XZA9s/UYSCgk1iI8I/AAAAAAAACXA/Pu_STrq-NVw/s400/WP_000333.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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Charging the 1800mah 2s LiPo that I got to test fit. </div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-m_qpL2bEYsY/UYSCiSPsUXI/AAAAAAAACXI/IGcuthbwMc8/s1600/WP_000334.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-m_qpL2bEYsY/UYSCiSPsUXI/AAAAAAAACXI/IGcuthbwMc8/s640/WP_000334.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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Te-da! Running this thing again showed me just how ballistic this thing is for its size :D.</div>
Jordanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03951190922958142729noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5911939370761516849.post-5086299203039189512013-05-03T19:47:00.001-07:002014-01-27T11:47:58.124-08:00RC Power Wheels Jeep<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
This post is about the Power Wheels Jeep I found in my neighbors trash while working on the <a href="http://dduino.blogspot.com/2013/04/diy-computer-racing-wheel-setup.html">Racing Wheel project</a>. I plan on slimming it down, PAINTING IT, and turning it into a RC Power Wheels (on a low budget).</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-As0mzd-FlQk/UX37hbCHp5I/AAAAAAAACT8/1ufYQRyDAsE/s1600/WP_000286.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-As0mzd-FlQk/UX37hbCHp5I/AAAAAAAACT8/1ufYQRyDAsE/s320/WP_000286.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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When I saw it, I was thinking it would be very unlikely any thing was severely wrong with it. </div>
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The first thing i did though, was wash it out. I could swear there was puke in it mixed with some slightly vegetated leaves. Nasty. It has two 6v Power Wheels Lead Acid batteries in the front wired in series aaaaand I instantly thought LiPo. </div>
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I took off the seat and realized why the wheels don't have any grip: the motors are tiny with some gear reduction. I grabbed the 12v car battery charger and tested out the motors: they work fine. Then i tested the whole system by hooking up to where the batteries were: nothing. My dad pointed out that the "gas" pedal sits in this little bowl thing (on the floor just left of the removed dash in the above picture) underneath the rest of the car which means that water eventually gathered and corroded the switch to death. Marketing, hah.</div>
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I took out that assembly and found that it wasn't the switch, but the wire connecting to it had broken off.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0kgJr7oim7E/UX37nWcOp0I/AAAAAAAACUY/yC6t8Pu0KrM/s1600/WP_000297.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0kgJr7oim7E/UX37nWcOp0I/AAAAAAAACUY/yC6t8Pu0KrM/s400/WP_000297.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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Recycling some of the plastic parts: seat, light bar, and the windshield. I decided to keep the dash because other wise it just looks like a big flat bed.</div>
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I have this 30A Brushed ESC from hobbyking so that should be perfect. I found <a href="http://www.modifiedpowerwheels.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=10021">this info</a> below on amp draw. Since i'll just be adding RC stuff the weight shouldn't be any where near 90lb. So, lots of power and I may need to put some grip on these plastic tires.</div>
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<i>no load = 3 to 5 amps</i></div>
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<i>90lbs load = 6-8 amps</i></div>
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<i>90lbs load up a 10 degree ramp also = thick grass = 18-29amps</i></div>
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I bought some blue gloss spray paint for my Racing Wheel Project (for the wheel center thingy, haha) and to paint this Jeep. They advertise 1 ~3.00$ can = 2x other cans, so i'll see just how much is in there.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Bl7zkQ_05Ho/UYR0ZygQK7I/AAAAAAAACU4/L6ezW4_6Hps/s1600/WP_000335.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Bl7zkQ_05Ho/UYR0ZygQK7I/AAAAAAAACU4/L6ezW4_6Hps/s400/WP_000335.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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I pulled out these power window motors from my 92' Taurus and found these specs; should be sufficient for steering.</div>
Serial: E6DF-14A365-B<br />
Watts: 22.30w<br />
Torque 1302oz-in @ 92RPM<br />
Amp draw 2.8A and 24.8A stall<br />
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Now I have to do the painting, wire in the ESC, and figure out how i'm going to mount and interface the power window motor. Oo<br />
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Soldered a XT-60 connector on the ESC and tested out a motor. Yes, I used adjustable wrenches to temporarily connect the motor to the ESC :D</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xB5BtBN7hkM/UYVu8vw4HkI/AAAAAAAACYw/QVt0R6xMunQ/s1600/WP_000341.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xB5BtBN7hkM/UYVu8vw4HkI/AAAAAAAACYw/QVt0R6xMunQ/s400/WP_000341.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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Nice and quick with adjustable speed!</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-w6GGTXCaYWI/UYVqfdpObuI/AAAAAAAACYM/twhUT2ocjvw/s1600/WP_000342.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-w6GGTXCaYWI/UYVqfdpObuI/AAAAAAAACYM/twhUT2ocjvw/s400/WP_000342.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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I also took apart the "shifter" turns out its just a lever and two switches Interesting idea by the Power Wheel engineers, lol.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-U9PSdeYhOEg/UYWil5XQeeI/AAAAAAAACZQ/Ntk5YtLc7a8/s1600/WP_000346.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-U9PSdeYhOEg/UYWil5XQeeI/AAAAAAAACZQ/Ntk5YtLc7a8/s400/WP_000346.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
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Poor grass :D</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nthz91BXe_k/UYWikMxwm0I/AAAAAAAACZA/XnBAd-xNxVQ/s1600/WP_000352.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nthz91BXe_k/UYWikMxwm0I/AAAAAAAACZA/XnBAd-xNxVQ/s400/WP_000352.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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Freaking awesome blue. Lighter than I thought (wanted a dark blue), oh well. Now I need to paint the bumper gloss black, the under body flat black, and the wheel side walls black</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Aql2-QBZYMI/UYWikQFLkaI/AAAAAAAACZE/IijVL9Osa30/s1600/WP_000353.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Aql2-QBZYMI/UYWikQFLkaI/AAAAAAAACZE/IijVL9Osa30/s400/WP_000353.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
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Underside of the hood painted flat black as i'm almost out of black gloss. Top is gloss.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PYR252CuGP8/UYbTmyY76YI/AAAAAAAACa4/04wRu4hipwE/s1600/WP_000354.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PYR252CuGP8/UYbTmyY76YI/AAAAAAAACa4/04wRu4hipwE/s320/WP_000354.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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This is how I covered up things I didn't want to paint.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WKkju7sd38s/UYbTpe8JrgI/AAAAAAAACbA/2iLSCpUklCc/s1600/WP_000355.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WKkju7sd38s/UYbTpe8JrgI/AAAAAAAACbA/2iLSCpUklCc/s320/WP_000355.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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The contrast of black and blue makes this PW look SO much better.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HW1QlDNsQmQ/UYbUL4mIvVI/AAAAAAAACcY/VPsFpsX5ZOM/s1600/WP_000365.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HW1QlDNsQmQ/UYbUL4mIvVI/AAAAAAAACcY/VPsFpsX5ZOM/s320/WP_000365.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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Interior... awesome!!</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-C5eORS3wHi4/UYbTxoiteQI/AAAAAAAACbQ/uhZMnL-15K0/s1600/WP_000357.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-C5eORS3wHi4/UYbTxoiteQI/AAAAAAAACbQ/uhZMnL-15K0/s320/WP_000357.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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Gotta fix that "roll cage".</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-W7hk5jPHTr0/UYbUeZ_ewAI/AAAAAAAACdQ/R2nMGjierUQ/s1600/WP_000374.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-W7hk5jPHTr0/UYbUeZ_ewAI/AAAAAAAACdQ/R2nMGjierUQ/s400/WP_000374.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
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Underside flat black (the pink is where the roll cage bolt was). <a href="https://plus.google.com/photos/115083053097959677037/albums/5874615405131820209?authkey=CI3fvb3V1NWhgQE">Here are some more finished pictures.</a></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OLuDk6TuDKw/UYe3LZdUzHI/AAAAAAAACdo/IKhV5nVjy5M/s1600/RL2130.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OLuDk6TuDKw/UYe3LZdUzHI/AAAAAAAACdo/IKhV5nVjy5M/s400/RL2130.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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I got some 12v 30A SPDT relays for the two drive motors and the steering motor from <a href="http://www.mdfly.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_14&products_id=855">here</a>. Wwo SPDT relays are required for forward and reverse capability with a motor (you can wire two motors together and still use just two relays, but be careful with amp draw.).</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gazo-oqi9rI/UYsXpOK3iPI/AAAAAAAACeg/NJlonYQDDhA/s1600/DPDT-symbol.svg.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gazo-oqi9rI/UYsXpOK3iPI/AAAAAAAACeg/NJlonYQDDhA/s320/DPDT-symbol.svg.png" height="320" width="251" /></a></div>
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For someone who wants a simpler solution, a DPDT</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zkr1jT_5PCs/UYsXoXkaYeI/AAAAAAAACeY/jdhy5P1kCPg/s1600/330px-Crossover-switch-symbol.svg.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zkr1jT_5PCs/UYsXoXkaYeI/AAAAAAAACeY/jdhy5P1kCPg/s320/330px-Crossover-switch-symbol.svg.png" height="320" width="257" /></a></div>
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An Intermediate relay (like a DPDT, but already wired internally for fwd / rev). Though it comes at a little higher price.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-q_O0LU735H4/UYstU-VV1YI/AAAAAAAACfA/_q_CKT7TdWI/s1600/motors.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-q_O0LU735H4/UYstU-VV1YI/AAAAAAAACfA/_q_CKT7TdWI/s640/motors.png" height="387" width="640" /></a></div>
Here is a "scheme" for the SPDT double relay design. Im not sure what out put is active when the relay is active, so I don't know if the PNP will need to be pulled up or down.</div>
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Package!</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pkdsPzbUeOI/UY2GxrtAYZI/AAAAAAAACgg/Zld0KtGo6O4/s1600/WP_000383.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pkdsPzbUeOI/UY2GxrtAYZI/AAAAAAAACgg/Zld0KtGo6O4/s320/WP_000383.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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Relays in package!</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eu1VlF-dom8/UY2GYQp7B7I/AAAAAAAACgA/DOk7XAn7NJw/s1600/WP_000388.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eu1VlF-dom8/UY2GYQp7B7I/AAAAAAAACgA/DOk7XAn7NJw/s320/WP_000388.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="text-align: center;">First thing i had to do was figure out the pin out I couldn't find anything online, but the below image from the datasheet helps.</span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uw4wSzh3pwU/UY2K6lAI_NI/AAAAAAAACgw/g2ELP0OPq9Y/s1600/realy.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uw4wSzh3pwU/UY2K6lAI_NI/AAAAAAAACgw/g2ELP0OPq9Y/s320/realy.png" height="320" width="312" /></a></div>
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This the relay inside from the datasheet. The image is kinda messy, but I think you'll see the matching layout.</div>
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Now i'm gonna solder 'em up.</div>
Jordanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03951190922958142729noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5911939370761516849.post-1556579226580180962013-04-28T21:55:00.002-07:002014-01-27T11:46:47.788-08:00DIY Computer Racing Wheel Setup<div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The main goal is to build a Racing Wheel for a computer out of a soon-to-be-scrapped 92 Ford Taurus. Since it's going to the scrap, it doesnt really matter what happens to it. Hehe. So, I've been taking apart random parts to learn about them. :) The photos area bit lacking but should get the point across.</div>
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There she is :D</div>
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ooh what's under the valve cover? And that's an intake manifold in the top left. It's not this particular model, but the Ford Taurus SHO (stock) can beat Mustangs easily. <a href="http://youtu.be/ZJN3-7K3U-A?t=1m14s">Quite interesting</a>. </div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Q0B81QYVg-c/UXzXBAZ4h4I/AAAAAAAACQA/B3R75U6qhXs/s1600/WP_000242+(1).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Q0B81QYVg-c/UXzXBAZ4h4I/AAAAAAAACQA/B3R75U6qhXs/s400/WP_000242+(1).jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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This is the front dash where the steering wheel was. The two shafts are the brakes and the steering column. I've also taken off the gauge cluster as it may turn out to be a nice addition (RC car FPV?).</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Pvh8KuYblps/UXzXDOqciLI/AAAAAAAACQM/wPsvsPwXijk/s1600/WP_000245.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Pvh8KuYblps/UXzXDOqciLI/AAAAAAAACQM/wPsvsPwXijk/s320/WP_000245.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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I took out my modded radio.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UhnnQn2yPyM/UXzXJuIO2NI/AAAAAAAACQo/hLU8Cl-X_7c/s1600/WP_000257.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UhnnQn2yPyM/UXzXJuIO2NI/AAAAAAAACQo/hLU8Cl-X_7c/s400/WP_000257.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
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Here i have the gas and brake petals, the gauge cluster, and some awesome switches!</div>
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Here's the steering wheel after a bit of modification. I've removed most of the mechanical and electrical parts and got rid of that awful grey color</div>
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Here is the rear part of the wheel / Steering column. It was quite heavy and the mounts were to far back for this project, so after removing it (dang spring) I have something to work with.</div>
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This is the mount between the two pieces which allowed for the wheel angle adjustment.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8j8Xr68u_nQ/UXzXekO4MgI/AAAAAAAACR4/-L1hGgxTM_M/s1600/WP_000271.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8j8Xr68u_nQ/UXzXekO4MgI/AAAAAAAACR4/-L1hGgxTM_M/s320/WP_000271.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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I painted the wheel glossy black and the mechanics behind it flat black. I wanted some blue, but i couldn't find any blue spray paint. :(</div>
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Ooo whats that? :D I was working on this racing wheel project and I see this "in" my neighbors trash. I think i'll have to ... grab that. I got plans for this!</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VjLUlmjMULg/UXzXMRV4ivI/AAAAAAAACQw/CUOqxiZkKgQ/s1600/WP_000258.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VjLUlmjMULg/UXzXMRV4ivI/AAAAAAAACQw/CUOqxiZkKgQ/s320/WP_000258.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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Now, back to work: I have to figure out how this whole thing will be mounted</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hHxbOJrrjwY/UXzXZFS3IbI/AAAAAAAACRg/b8pguEC3pHA/s1600/WP_000262.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hHxbOJrrjwY/UXzXZFS3IbI/AAAAAAAACRg/b8pguEC3pHA/s320/WP_000262.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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I also took this off when the steering wheel came out of the car. :D</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7a6mnxU2Bcs/UXzXQl0iOqI/AAAAAAAACRI/z8n5yLYPHZI/s1600/WP_000263.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7a6mnxU2Bcs/UXzXQl0iOqI/AAAAAAAACRI/z8n5yLYPHZI/s320/WP_000263.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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Electrically ignited explosives... hmmm</div>
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Any ways, I also cut off the "loops" of the wheel so it is less cumbersome while in use.</div>
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Here is a mounting bracket that i slimmed down with a dremel to fit the modded wheel better. </div>
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Next i did some trimming on the wheel mount to get rid of excess material so I could mount it better. Here is the second mount which should allow me to have some sort of variable angle too.</div>
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More coming later.</div>
Jordanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03951190922958142729noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5911939370761516849.post-33760584978580953522013-04-28T15:29:00.001-07:002014-01-27T11:53:53.129-08:00OBDuino ProjectThe goal of this project is to interface an Arduino with car OBDII diagnostics to display telemetry for the driver. This project first started because I wanted a tachometer in my automatic 2002 Prizm. I found one of those <a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-Auto-Boat-52mm-Tachometer-Tach-7000-RPM-Redline-/330903829291?_trksid=p2047675.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222001%26algo%3DSIC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D11%26meid%3D7098692058760068728%26pid%3D100011%26prg%3D1005%26rk%3D1%26sd%3D330754319070%26">super cheap tachs</a> on ebay, but hey, whats the fun in that? <a href="http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/130-7th-generation-1993-1997/416643-aftermarket-tach-install-under-20-pics.html">Here</a> is a toyotanation (forum) post on that tach and install for most ~2000 Toyota Corollas. This tach works by reading the IGN or ignition pulse from the diagnostic port.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MFDm5HK6HF4/Uua5K9667KI/AAAAAAAADJQ/yX39FxTf7yk/s1600/OBDuino_logo.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MFDm5HK6HF4/Uua5K9667KI/AAAAAAAADJQ/yX39FxTf7yk/s1600/OBDuino_logo.png" height="81" width="400" /></a></div>
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Then I found a post about LM2917 IC that converts the PWM IGN pulse to an analog output. Add a 12v to 5v voltage divider and it would be easy to interface to read the RPMs with an Arduino and display it on one of those 16x4 LCDs. I ordered some free samples, but still kept on looking for better.<br />
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I came across the OBDuino32k (for atemga 328 style MCUs) project and turned out to be the ultimate solution! It reads info from the OBDII engine computer and can gather much more than just RPM. Things such as MPG, miles left in tank, fuel remaining and more.Then I sample some of the Freescale <a href="http://www.freescale.com/webapp/sps/site/prod_summary.jsp?code=MC33660">MC33660</a> chips for the OBD interface which converts the ISO K line from the OBD to RX and TX to the Arduino. Only one signal wire is required to get ALL of this data! The Vishay part <a href="http://www.vishay.com/product?docid=70788">Si9243A </a>also will work instead of the <a href="http://www.freescale.com/webapp/sps/site/prod_summary.jsp?code=MC33660">MC33660</a>.<br />
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Parts list<br />
<a href="http://www.freescale.com/webapp/sps/site/prod_summary.jsp?code=MC33660">MC33660 </a>or <a href="http://www.vishay.com/product?docid=70788">Si9243A</a><br />
<a href="http://carplugs.com/products.html">OBDII Male plug</a> part #1000 or #1090 for international people<br />
220ohm resistor (or any resistor sutible for a LED on a 5v digital output)<br />
3 push buttons<br />
3x16 character HD44780 style LCD<br />
Cable for OBD to the arduino<br />
Hookup wire<br />
<a href="https://code.google.com/p/opengauge/source/browse/#svn%2Ftrunk%2Fobduino32K%253Fstate%253Dclosed">Code</a><br />
Arduino - Uno etc, or a homemade board<br />
Homemade board needs:<br />
Atmega 328P w/ Uno boot loader or a plain 328p if you have a ICSP and can flash the bootloader<br />
A 16mhz Crystal<br />
Two 22pf capacitors<br />
Simple push botton<br />
10k resistor<br />
USB to UART or RS232 to UART cable for uploading sketches<br />
5volt regulator<br />
Connecting wire<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dbR4Zj3Va0k/UX2Txkh-tmI/AAAAAAAACS0/WmxGAHONq8s/s1600/OBDuino+lcd+scheme.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dbR4Zj3Va0k/UX2Txkh-tmI/AAAAAAAACS0/WmxGAHONq8s/s640/OBDuino+lcd+scheme.png" height="368" width="640" /></a></div>
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Here is a scheme i made in Fritzing for OBDuino: <a href="https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/28052258/OBDuino%20lcd%20scheme.fzz">Link</a></div>
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<img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vcn-4fhGs8o/UX2bhTrG_7I/AAAAAAAACTs/aFwIkyKuUh8/s400/obduino+uno.png" height="345" width="400" /></div>
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This scheme is if you are using an actual Arduino board (like the uno)</div>
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Ta da! The atmega was too close to the bottom of the board so I had to make a little extension thing. </div>
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The back side of the board. This is actually the second prototype and this turned out much better. I used protoboard (has the little copper solder holes) which made it way easier to make this. The ISP and FTDI connectors are at the top. 5v Voltage Regulator in the center, and the <a href="http://www.freescale.com/webapp/sps/site/prod_summary.jsp?code=MC33660">MC33660 </a> is at the bottom.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2NYwNnfB8dQ/UX2TzAKFRTI/AAAAAAAACTE/Dy-jPdSjXh4/s1600/basic+bread+board+duino.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2NYwNnfB8dQ/UX2TzAKFRTI/AAAAAAAACTE/Dy-jPdSjXh4/s400/basic+bread+board+duino.png" height="232" width="400" /></a></div>
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Here is a <a href="https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/28052258/basic%20bread%20board%20duino.fzz">Fritzing scheme</a> of a simple breadboard Arduino with a ISP and FTDI conenctor</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hjKJQxzdgdg/UX2Tyb8SifI/AAAAAAAACS8/RsuueVCbmUc/s1600/OBDuino+serial+lcd+scheme.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hjKJQxzdgdg/UX2Tyb8SifI/AAAAAAAACS8/RsuueVCbmUc/s400/OBDuino+serial+lcd+scheme.png" height="242" width="400" /></a></div>
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Here is a scheme of a Serial LCD version of the OBDuino. It would greatly simplify the hardware, but i have only just began modifying the code for it.</div>
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Currently, it wont upload a sketch via serial, so I'm trying to fix that. Altough the ISP header works and i burned the UNO bootloader. I also manually burned the sketch via ISP and it didn't work correctly, so i have some stuff to figure out.</div>
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To fix that issue, i put some switches in line with the serial lines going from / to the ISO chip so that it couldn't interrupt the Arduino programming signals. </div>
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The new LCd came and i wired that up but it still didn't work. I checked the wiring and two of them were switched, so the old LCD could still be good, but i didn't try it.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EHlyn-qQ5CU/UZW4TmhEuKI/AAAAAAAACqs/Kt252xFLwXc/s1600/WP_000411.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EHlyn-qQ5CU/UZW4TmhEuKI/AAAAAAAACqs/Kt252xFLwXc/s320/WP_000411.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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I also didn't check the LCD orientation, so i had to flip it and redo the wiring again.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BbMLJUji_iw/UZW4TH0ZyqI/AAAAAAAACqk/CmSPChdIsvg/s1600/WP_000425.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BbMLJUji_iw/UZW4TH0ZyqI/AAAAAAAACqk/CmSPChdIsvg/s320/WP_000425.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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yay, right side up.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vJuWuB-cz7k/UZW4SDj1zEI/AAAAAAAACqc/JyTpdtfUBfY/s1600/WP_000434.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vJuWuB-cz7k/UZW4SDj1zEI/AAAAAAAACqc/JyTpdtfUBfY/s320/WP_000434.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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But i ran into this contrast issue when not powering it from the USBASP. Strange, i know. look <a href="http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=166818.0">here</a> for more.</div>
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Update: I still can't for the life of me can't figure out why it wont init correctly, so i have abandoned it for now and will be just going for RPM from the TACH signal from the ECU of the car.</div>
Jordanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03951190922958142729noreply@blogger.com14tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5911939370761516849.post-25607923393327443532013-03-06T17:57:00.001-08:002013-05-04T08:19:08.884-07:00Disassembeling a LiPo<div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
This is one of my first 3s LiPos that is pretty much useless now (wasn't damaged), so i decided to disassemble it.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JhFHR0CHPYU/UTammbHCBJI/AAAAAAAACMY/9oTq3snJHtY/s1600/WP_000190.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JhFHR0CHPYU/UTammbHCBJI/AAAAAAAACMY/9oTq3snJHtY/s400/WP_000190.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Cut off the blue casing by taking an exacto knife. I cut a little notch and then it simply ripped down the case.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wKpMwDEZOIU/UTamo93_3MI/AAAAAAAACMg/dpgt4fQVlaQ/s1600/WP_000193.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wKpMwDEZOIU/UTamo93_3MI/AAAAAAAACMg/dpgt4fQVlaQ/s400/WP_000193.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The balance connector and main terminal connectors</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TUr3mJnpSDg/UTamrz9qpMI/AAAAAAAACMo/K88fSYvqHwU/s1600/WP_000196.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TUr3mJnpSDg/UTamrz9qpMI/AAAAAAAACMo/K88fSYvqHwU/s400/WP_000196.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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I didn't want to risk un-soldering, so, i carefully trimmed off the balance wires, then the main leads. </div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OcnFpurWI-c/UTamsZh4PFI/AAAAAAAACMw/f89hVF_Kfhs/s1600/WP_000197.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OcnFpurWI-c/UTamsZh4PFI/AAAAAAAACMw/f89hVF_Kfhs/s400/WP_000197.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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To separate the cells, i used a plastic table knife and gently sawed them apart. The adhesive smelled really bad, but it at least it wasn't sweet ( a sweetish smell from a LiPo = fire).</div>
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As seen in the pictures, this 3S LiPo has three cells each with a nominal voltage of 3.7V and a capacity of 2200mah. Put three of these in series and you have 11.1V, the nominal voltage of a 3S LiPo battery. If the batteries is in series, the voltage increases, but the capacity is the same as the individual cells. In parallel the battery would have the same voltage as the individual cells, but the capacity of each cell is essentially "added". So, if these were wired in parallel, it would've been a 1S (3.7V) 6600mah LiPo battery.<br />
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And as the Mythbusters have said:<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/4xye0GDcV9Q?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
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(All rights given to uploader and original content provider. I don't own this or the content.)</div>
<br />Jordanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03951190922958142729noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5911939370761516849.post-19397233540502866202013-03-06T17:31:00.001-08:002013-05-25T21:44:23.803-07:00Yet Another Original Car Radio Aux Input ModYeah, bad title, get over it.<br />
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Background</h3>
I got a new car because my 92' Taurus's ECM (the brain) decided to crap out. We decided it would be better to just get a new car. Oh, and this was in the middle of the interstate :D. Which meant that the motor suddenly stopped since nothing was controlling the motor electronics. Since i was going 70mph, it was quite easy to pull of to the side and think "what the hell" ?!?!?<br />
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I poked around craigslist and found one of the cars I've always wanted: a 1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse. This didn't work out because i'd know they were all owned by younger people and therefor shitily driven. Still wanting a Mitsubishi, i found a Lancer, but the same story. I settled on a 2002 Chevy Prizm for a good price. it doesn't have many features, but it gets 37 MPG. meh, it gets good mpg, "screw looks" i basically said. It actually had a CD player, so i didnt really mind no aux-in port. this soon changed.<br />
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While using it, i noticed the buttons were all extremely hard to push. Meh, whatever, i only need the main volume/power encoder, so i didn't really care. And then CDs stopped working. I'm screwed. I never listen to FM because i have no local Techno etc stations. i have ascended to the best music. So i took this radio apart, and surprise, surprise: pop all over the inside. It seem the previous owners spilled a bit. I started cleaning and soon realized that i couldn't do it by hand. So i walk over to the sink, fill it up with hot water and i wash my radio :D. FYI, it is the minerals in the water, not the H20 itself that fries electronics. Then i did a few rinse cycles in distilled water (pure H20), and dried it. The radio still works just as it did before the wash: no CD player.<br />
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Theory Stuff</h3>
I then began the same search as i did in my <a href="http://dduino.blogspot.com/2012/05/fm-radio-aux-input-mod.html">Taurus radio mod</a> for the audio lines to the speaker amplifiers on the PCB and therefor bypassing the controls entirely and allowing a standard 3.5mm audio cable to be connected for aux-in. i was still unable to find the audio lines from the FM decoder to the mixer chip so i'm stuck without mixer controls on the radio (bass boost etc).<br />
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If your CD player still works and you just want aux out, then look at these sites: <a href="http://www.gmfullsize.com/forum/showthread.php?t=165670">here </a>and <a href="http://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-electronics/688297-how-you-can-add-aux-input-mp3-player-without-adapter.html">here</a>. Note that the Prizm radio is essentially the same as the ones in those posts, so the mod works. i'd guess a lot of stock radios from the 2000's would have a similar layout and the mod would also work. This method allows you to still use the bass, treble and volume buttons etc on your radio with your aux device and the CD player still works when you take out the aux cable.<br />
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The Mod</h3>
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Pull out the Radio</h4>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mO4r_NK6d1c/UTfqAzVHSVI/AAAAAAAACPI/F1v3IAA18LE/s1600/WP_000220.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mO4r_NK6d1c/UTfqAzVHSVI/AAAAAAAACPI/F1v3IAA18LE/s400/WP_000220.jpg" width="271" /></a></div>
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<span style="text-align: start;">Use a screw driver to pry the black console frame off at the red line. Make sure you don't damage the dashboard foam/plastic stuff. Or you could some how pull out with some 90deg hook tool at the blue line. After you get a side loose, then just use your hands and follow the perimeter with your hands pulling out.</span></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9bEZ4jUCqJI/UTfqAuon2qI/AAAAAAAACPE/dYPHxyERwK4/s1600/WP_000222.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9bEZ4jUCqJI/UTfqAuon2qI/AAAAAAAACPE/dYPHxyERwK4/s400/WP_000222.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Pull the black casing off to the side to get the radio out. </div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-baTnvsly6sc/UTfqCB0csYI/AAAAAAAACPU/BBChIupP1SM/s1600/WP_000224.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-baTnvsly6sc/UTfqCB0csYI/AAAAAAAACPU/BBChIupP1SM/s400/WP_000224.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Take out the four yellow marked screws. Now, pull the radio out and up just over the shifter. Then, pull off the antenna connector and harness. </div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BDtUADGGDTQ/UTappsFiEuI/AAAAAAAACM8/HG3fK2KgWFI/s1600/WP_000177.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BDtUADGGDTQ/UTappsFiEuI/AAAAAAAACM8/HG3fK2KgWFI/s320/WP_000177.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Here's my radio before the mod.</div>
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Take off the mounting hardware and case</h4>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zRM2iYCNfAg/UTasfPTjNnI/AAAAAAAACNM/-kOTSxOnQ08/s1600/WP_000199.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zRM2iYCNfAg/UTasfPTjNnI/AAAAAAAACNM/-kOTSxOnQ08/s320/WP_000199.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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These plates are held on by a few small screws, and just pull off. Also, note that these are weird bolts, neither customary or metric sockets fit. I had to use a pliers.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-U01X4THdIbw/UTasf7BM0MI/AAAAAAAACNU/QIn74cwjwz8/s1600/WP_000198.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-U01X4THdIbw/UTasf7BM0MI/AAAAAAAACNU/QIn74cwjwz8/s320/WP_000198.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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These are the mounts for the radio to the car dash.One bracket per side. Three 8mm bolts each.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-V-cwRcf0hG4/UTasgAsoCfI/AAAAAAAACNY/cpMbt-DHVRk/s1600/WP_000201.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-V-cwRcf0hG4/UTasgAsoCfI/AAAAAAAACNY/cpMbt-DHVRk/s320/WP_000201.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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All the plates and brackets</div>
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Search for the magical mixer IC output lines</h4>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VYBKh3Snfck/UTameIpKndI/AAAAAAAACL0/TsYixO5t8DE/s1600/WP_000179.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VYBKh3Snfck/UTameIpKndI/AAAAAAAACL0/TsYixO5t8DE/s320/WP_000179.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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CD Player Mechanism below the top plate. </div>
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This was simply puled out after the case screws were taken out.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-aq1wuRb_GnM/UTaxw3ZJeeI/AAAAAAAACOI/7gBdvKvi19A/s1600/WP_000202.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-aq1wuRb_GnM/UTaxw3ZJeeI/AAAAAAAACOI/7gBdvKvi19A/s320/WP_000202.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The top PCB after taking out the CD player mechanism. Hot glued the cable to the PCB.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-26PiOgdLP2g/UTamjVON_iI/AAAAAAAACME/sKnaX8dlUms/s1600/WP_000173.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-26PiOgdLP2g/UTamjVON_iI/AAAAAAAACME/sKnaX8dlUms/s400/WP_000173.jpg" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></a></div>
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The bare PCB below bottom plate. Where ill find the input lines.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MaH27qPmfQo/UTavK1hQthI/AAAAAAAACNs/s91xT2E61k8/s1600/pcb+labeled.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MaH27qPmfQo/UTavK1hQthI/AAAAAAAACNs/s91xT2E61k8/s640/pcb+labeled.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Labeled PCB</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nX7lKcUPc8k/UTawqX2n-bI/AAAAAAAACN4/VSOYjLoOBII/s1600/WP_000181.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nX7lKcUPc8k/UTawqX2n-bI/AAAAAAAACN4/VSOYjLoOBII/s640/WP_000181.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Mixer outputs to AMP.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-r4BGZwxJ2po/UTaziYJSjLI/AAAAAAAACOY/D3zaRBESTqM/s1600/WP_000203.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-r4BGZwxJ2po/UTaziYJSjLI/AAAAAAAACOY/D3zaRBESTqM/s400/WP_000203.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Then i just soldered a 3.5mm audio cable to the pads, and soldered a ground.</div>
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Jordanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03951190922958142729noreply@blogger.com1